The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop hammer tone

does anyone know how to make the hammertone finish in paint? Dave

Buy it in a can.

It is a carefully proportioned mixture of pigments and carriers that separate as soon as they are applied.

The trick is to make them separate evenly and controlled.

It is almost as difficult to do well as making speckled trunk paint come out perfect.

I used Hammerite aerosol on undercarriage parts on my Model A. I bought it locally but here's an internet link : http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1525&familyName=Hammerite+Rust+Cap+%22Smooth+Finish%22++spray+paint+

It's expensive but the hammered finish looks great and holds up great too.

Here's some photos from about 15 years ago, The red 4-bar, drive shaft, battery box and brake cylinder mount and pedal are Hammerite:
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1931%20Ford%20Tudor/0601995.jpg

Here's a close up from about a month ago:
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1931%20Ford%20Tudor/GEDC3012_zpsbc66c14d.jpg

Hope this helps.

my problem is, I live in Alaska and the vendors won't ship to me. Just was wondering if I could make my own for the interior of my 41. Dave

That's a bummer Dave. I guess I'm spoiled that all my vendors are as close as the UPS truck. I don't have any comment on mixing the paint, but was thinking maybe you could special order from a local store that gets the paint. I've used Rust-Oleum Hammertone black for a lot of stuff under the truck and like it. I get mine at Home Depot.

Dennis

Dave

If you have any friends in the lower 48 the problem can be easily solved. Decide on the color you want. Paypal the money to your friend. they go to Lowes or where ever and buy it and ship you a box UPS or Fedex.

Homer

I bought mine at Lowe's. Worked perfectly. This was for heater box on 1951. So close to the stuff from venders, you can not tell the difference. Easy to use and no heating to get the proper look. Better price too.

Mark

Well, I'll check out the depot. Dave

Do they have a Home Depot in Homer, AK?

I'm no doubt way behind the times so forgive me, but I still
think of Sgt. Preston of the North West Mounted Police, or
George Pratt and Sam McCord when I hear northern Canada or
Alaska mentioned.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL, Lower 48

None of the big box stores here, to artsy fartsy for that sort of thing. The closest depot is 1 1/2 hours driving up the road. I have to go up there and farther next weekend, son going to a cross country ski meet. Have you seen that show Alaska the last frontier? That's filmed right here in Homer. Dave

This is the one I used. Krylon Hamm-R Metallic Charcoal Gray
RTA9242 Bought it at a local auto parts store(non box).
Have seen that show quite a few times. You guys are hardy folks to handle that weather.

I was watching that Rick's Restoration show on TV and he said how to make hammertone paint, but I can't remember what he said to add.

So I'm not to far off base after all. I'll have to take a look
at Homer on the Google maps.
I looked into modifying the hammertone paints such as Hammerite
or Rustolium in the spray cans and in quarts. I ended up with a
sample of all the colors in an attempt to match up the paint on
the heaters. From what I've been able to find out they get the
paint to separate by adding silicone. Problem I have with it is
that it leaves these pock marks and fairly rough surface
compared to the original paint surface texture. I don't think
there is a way of formulating it your self. I also looked into
the same thing with wrinkle paint when I was restoring 20's,
30's radios and never did find the secret.

Denny G

My experience so far has been "learning from my mistakes". As Denny has stated, my experience was that I did not get the finish I had hoped for. I shot the inside of the heater day one and I think covered two mistakes. One was shooting at 60 degrees Fahrenheit (the minimum recommended temperature). It did not seem to flow out well and gave what I felt was a "fisheyed" finish. I also may have shot too wet of coats. Not enough to run, but I do feel like it may have contributed to the fisheye effect. Day two was warmer so I tackled the outer surfaces. I shot thinner coats but was also afraid of a "dry finish".

All in all, it looks OK but again as Denny mentioned, somewhat "pocked" in places and not an even finish. I too did the wrinkle finish paint on a different project and that was an experience in itself. You have to spray that on the ragged edge of running. Too light, and it does not give enough wrinkle finish.

Trick finish paints may not be my calling, but it will pass for now until the critical eye starts poking around.

We don't have Hammerite around here. Rustoleum sells hammertone in aerosol and quarts in about six different colors. I used the quart and sprayed it through my paint gun. Worked great, and easy to spray to get an even coverage.

I'd really appreciate it if you could post some close up
pictures of the surface texture on that hammer tone Rustoleum
you sprayed CL. We're constantly open to new ideas here at
Graham's garage.
I've got every hammer tone color that Hammerite and Rustoleum
both offer in rattle cans and a couple of quarts of the some.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/151322365
They all leave the pock marked texture that Greg and I have
described. The original "hammer tone" finish on the Harrison
heaters, had a very smooth texture just like that which a
straight solid color paint would leave. The "hammer tone"
pattern on the heaters showed up in the pigmentation of the
paint not as a surface texture. The "fish eye" that Greg
mentioned is just exactly what it is, and as I said, I was told
some years back that it comes from the presents of silicone in
the paint.
Just as our world is moving more and more toward water based
paints, most of the specialty paints have had their compounds
modified to comply with EPA standards. There were many chemical
elements used in the decorative texture paints of the past,
that have been banned for use in todays paint. This required
manufacturers to come up with substitute compounds to achieve
the textures and patterns. Metallic in paint's aren't the same,
the resins aren't the same, the thinners aren't the same, the
pigments aren't the same, the compounds that force the wrinkle
or hammer tone aren't the same.
So the end result and the best we can expect is a somewhat
disappointing match to the original color tint, reflectivity
and surface textures.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

After doing a lot of looking I either didn't like the colors, because they were not close to the original samples I had, or the finish was way more fisheyed than the original(it was very suttle).I finally gave up and went with the closest Dupont color enamel I could find and it looks great. It looks very similar to Tim Sherridans 47 in the gallery. The color is called Heather Mist. Scott

Your not related to the Wondering Wyllie's from Tucson are you Scott?

Could you post a picture of your paint job Scott. Pictures speak
a thousand word you know. Was that DuPont paint a special mix,
perhaps for some make and model car? And was it a metallic?

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denney,Heather mist is a Dupont national fleet color, it is a light metalic. I tried to e-mail some pictures to you and was not sucessful, you should have a PM from me. No I am from Reno Nevada, and it's wanderin willys, as in Jeep. Scott