The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Trailer Hitch experience?

I am ready to put a class 3 hitch on my 3105 panel truck.
Suspension upgrades front and rear will be adequate & it has a 455 Buick
with a TH400 & 56 Olds rear end. I'd also use a weight distribution kit on it.

Has anyone adapted a hitch to their panel or pick up from any of the current sources such as
CURT, Reese, DrawTie, etc? The center to center frame rail measurement is 44 inches; about 46 1/4" outside to outside.

Just looking for any towing experience on one of these chassis…

thanks
mike

I built custom trailer hitches for many years. It might be simpler to fabricate one from channel iron and square tubing than to try to adapt something already assembled.

My method was to make a pair of side rails about 12"-18" long from 3" channel iron, with a cross piece of the same material, then cut a square hole in the center the right size to accept a receiver tube. Then the receiver tube is welded and gusseted into place with triangular 1/4" plate on both sides, top and bottom. The whole assembly can be bolted on, using 5/8" Grade 8 bolts. If an under-bed spare tire is involved, it might be necessary to adapt the spare tire carrier somewhat.
Jerry

I used an off the shelf hitch on my 1 ton, wish I knew what it was supposed to fit... only had to drill the mounting holes in the bottom of the frame. Hitch was already the right width for the 36" frame.

Take your measurements and go somewhere that has a lot of hitches in stock, you may also get lucky.

There's lot's of Universal fit hitches out there, Mostly used on RVs. and box trucks.

If I remember correctly, Reese, Draw Tite, and Curt are all the same company now.

Swing by your local U-haul shop. They might surprise you.

If their inventory doesn't impress you, the prices certainly will- - - - -bring a big jar of Vaseline with you!
Jerry

Even if you find something that looks good at u-haul all you need to know is what it is supposed to fit. Then price shop elsewhere.

Just so happens that in the current March 2014 issue of Classic Trucks I received today is an announcement by a company making hitches for 1947-55 1st series classic Chevy and GMC trucks. Not too much info given, but it says you can contact them by email at [email protected] if you want to.

Here's a universal hitch. Adjustable up to 51"

http://www.thehitchstore.com/class-iii-rv-hitch-w-2-drop-p-1375.html

U-Haul part #75133 its for a Chevy Venture minivan. It fits the Taskforce trucks from 55.2 - 59

Thanks Guys…

Some good ideas here I will investigate, but I will when it WARMS up!

Hey Jerry,

I'm all out of Vaseline…. used it up on my exposed skin yesterday when it hit
-47F windchill ( -18F static air temp). So I'll probably fab something up
some frame rail brackets and fill the gap with something off the shelf.

The panel has a modified 71-73 Mustang fuel tank in place of the spare.
Fits like it was made for it. So, just have to drop it enough to clear the tank
and then reach rearward to exit under the stock rear bumper.

I think I'll roam around the local hitch retailers with my tape measure in hand and see if one can be readily modified.

Drew, thanks for the new 47-54 hitch vendor..will check that out ,too

Stay warm All
mike

The one White shows wont clear the bumper on a 47-55. I made one that bolts into the frame rails, but then turns downwards to clear the bumper while still allowing for the underbed spare tire carrier. I made it so the center rear bumper bolt is used for added support. Its not an easy thing to do and still keep it stock. I will check out brtengineering.com tho. Very interested in how they did it.

A guy I know made his own, and had it come right through the middle of the rear bumper. IT actually looked really clean, but it worked best there too because his truck is lowered.

I have been in contact with these guys in the last two days…Nice fellow named Jon has given me some measurements to take on my panel; seems they too are interested in a "below the bumper" receiver for our
47-55 1st series trucks.
I have a heckuva cold right now but will be sending him pics and measurements upon recovery… My fuel tank will not be an issue since it is tucked way up there between the rails.

Quick question, GUys… is the rear frame section of the panel identical to a pick up, or not? Mine is 44 inches center t center on the rails at the point where the rear bumper brackets attach.
Thanks!
mike

Take a look at this site:

http://www.curtmfg.com/Category/12/Multi-Fit%20Hitches

They have a number of univesal fit hitches and weld-on hitches. If nothing else, give them a call with your dimensions, they have numbers on the contact page.

They are a little pricey, but it's full list price, I'm sure a dealer can do better.

Frame specs:


http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0202.htm

Heres a link to a discussion on the frame:
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=717568

Squire,

Yes, all 3100 rear frame sections are the same.

There were different rear bumpers by year, 47-53 and 54/55; and, there were different rear bumper brackets and rear bumpers for pickup vs panel (47-55).

Here is the one I referred to in Classic Trucks magazine.

http://www.tbrtengineering.com/trailer-hitches.html

Yikes? If you back up too far, there goes your tailgate!

A straight line frame bracket such as the ones so far mentioned wont work. The bumper is below the two frame rails. Unless you wish to cut massive holes on each side of your bumpers, there needs to be an immediate bend downward about 4 inches then the hitch can be installed just below the bumper. Then there is the underbed spare tire carrier to consider. Small but workable window to accommodate everything.

Supposedly, the one shown by Drew works on 47-55 1/2 ton trucks, using the 1954/55 pickup rear bumper?

It is odd that they say they also have "a suburban version and a carryall version". Most likely this also uses the 54/55 pickup bumper.

Too bad they do not show more photos of installations.

If anyone gets one of these bumpers, please post an installation report.

A trailer hitch project for my 49 3100 is in my future too.
I want to pull a trailer of small antique tractors to local shows.

I can't remember where I saw it (and I'm searching back) but someone made a hitch bracket out of angle iron that bolted to the frame rails around the spare tire carrier (keeping it usable) and the reciever hitch exited through a square hole cut in the bumper.
Probably real similar to whats been already stated in this thread.
No other input, just subscribing & watching.
Dave

If someone was willing to fabricate a step-type rear bumper that wraps around the bed and extends to the rear of the fenders, then incorporated a square tube receiver hitch into the bumper, that would probably be the best possible situation. That's the way people did serious towing of heavy loads back when these trucks were in daily use.
Jerry

This is the custom hitch that will accommodate both stock bumper and underbed spare tire carrier.

http://s1312.photobucket.com/user/Deve1958/media/DSC00598_zpse731a8ea.jpg.html

3 Pics. The center tab is where you bolt the center bumper bolt to on the back side. Not hard to make if you have a good square tubing bender which I don't so had to get that part done at the local welding shop.

My current project needs it because when the truck is done, I am making a pickup bed trailer that matches the truck.

Very nice compact looking hitch Deve. But where exactly does the
center J-bolt for the under bed spare go that you mentioned?
I'd like to see it when you get it mounted up with a
spare tire in the carrier. Looks like it would have
to not only kick down but way back to clear the
spare. Also the carrier flange where the J-bolt goes
thru is only 4" inside the bumper and the J-bolt 6".
Doesn't appear that there would be enough clearance
to keep the back end of the receiver behind the face
of the bumper when the drawbar/ball mount isn't installed.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/154085450
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/154085476

Denny G

Jerry,

Do you remember these Barden Bumpers.

They tore the heck out of the fenders on a few 1954 trucks I have bought. But, those bumpers sure were sturdy.

Denny I have had it all fitted up before so I know it works, but I am aways away from proving it. Lots to do on my project before that step, but hopefully since I am documenting this truck carefully, it will all be very clear in the end. Admittedly its all VERY tight. Also, this is a half ton truck, so people don't think you can put a heavy duty trailer behind it. With 1/8" steel for the frame, it just wasn't designed for hauling.

Fun challenges everyday!

Well I'm sure you will post some pics when you get it put together.
tks
dg

Those are the ones I was thinking about, just forgot the name. A receiver tube attached to one of them and braced properly would look period-correct and be safe to use with a load-leveler hitch.
Jerry

I like that hitch, hope to see more pictures ect... when you get it installed Deve. I take it the ends slide inside the frame with bolts through the frame rails to hold it?

John

Yes. Uses the standard bumper bolt holes. I will get pics of it installed with the spare tire sometime. Don't know when yet.

Deve, when I first looked at the pictures of you hitch, my knee jerk reaction was that it looked a bit frail. But after thinking about it a while, I concluded that the less than massive design would keep a reasonable person from trying to haul something bigger than they should with these old trucks.
Carl

The size of the steel can be deceiving because the thickness cant be ascertained by looking at the pics. The steel is 3/16" which is a 1/16th thicker than the frame itself. The C-channel that fits inside the frame is 1/4". I know what you mean, but yes, if that fails, you are hauling something way bigger than you should. Its very heavy, about 35 pounds of steel there.

Could one cut the angles and weld the square tubing together for the shape if you don't have a tubing roller / bender?

John

Yes, that would work if your welds are very good. I am several months away from getting mine installed and tweaked but I have thought about having several pieces bent and just selling the complete unit for this vintage. This design is as good as it gets because it uses the frames bumper bolts AND the center bumper bolt for stability using the stock configuration.

This COULD be a very good time to put a heavy duty tubing bender on my list.. but, not sure it would pay for itself. There is a compromise and its actually how my welding shop friends did the original one.. they used a 20 ton shop press with home made dies. I have the press so would just need to copy the dies to get it done. My list of things to do is endless!