The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1951 216 Gaskets

I need some advice on where to a buy oilpan gasket and rear main set for my 1951 3600 with 216. I've been driving it quite a bit lately (1,000 miles in the last couple months) and while I'd hoped driving would help the rear main leak, the result has been the exact opposite.

This is a documented 44,000 mile truck that hasn't had the pan dropped in a very long time, if ever so I'm expecting the original cork gaskets and rope rear main seal. Anyone have any suggestions, not only on where to buy, but what type gaskets, cork and rope or neoprene. I've already picked up a cool little rear main gasket tool called a "Sneaky Pete". Sure looks like it'll work.

Thanks in advance, Ron

I helped a friend of mine replace a rear seal and pan gasket on his spare 216. Now that motor was on an engine stand with no transmission to hold things in place. The following is for the woven rear seal material.

We loosened all of the main bearing bolts and removed the last main bearing cap and lift the crank off the bearings. Now the seal is stuck in the grove and it must first be loosened. I pushed small stiff wire (old chock cable) between the seal and the block do this several times from both ends and try to make several new paths. The wire should be long enough to stick out past the block 3-4 inches. With two vicegrips, grab the wire ends and lift the seal out of it's grove in the block, thus breaking it's adhesion to the seal grove. Now with some help from someone, turn the crank and at the same time rotating the seal out. Check as best as you can to make sure that no old seal material was left behind.

With your new tool, install the new seal, again rotating the crank, some oil on the new seal may also help. Retorque the 3 crank cap bolts. The new seal should stand proud of the block and the last bearing cap. This is where we get into 2 schools of thought, 1- trim, 2- leave it as is. This all depends on how long the seal ends are? I like to see the ends stand proud 1/16" to 1/8" at all 4 ends. Install the last bearing cap and torque, remove the rearing again and inspect. Your looking for seal material squeezed between the bearing cap and the block, this MUST be removed, if not it will change the oil clearance between the bearing and crank. Wipe off any oil with alcohol and use a sealer (not much) at the seal area (on the cap).
Personal note, I used Permatex Aviation, I don't like Silicone in oil environment, oil will sep between Silicone and steel.
"Silicone has it's place, but every place"

Woodildo

I would recommend checking bearing clearance before installing the new rope seal. Also the new rope should be worked into place, hard to do with the crankshaft in place. The rope in the main cap can be worked in. With things all set up properly the motor will turn pretty hard. Just make sure that not to tight that it will burn up friction. I would also recommend finding a NOT main seal or a Best Gaskets seal. Most other brands will leak.
Don

Thanks All! After reading and more research I'll be ordering the Best Gasket. Currently researching first hand accounts on checking and adjusting main bearing clearance since I've got to loosen the main caps to install the rear seal. Then I'm thinking well, may as well check and set (if needed) the rods as well.

I'm getting ready to install a S10 T5 and thought I'd do it all at the same time. I can see this is a can of worms that once opened, gets outta hand pretty quick. I've been bit before by the old "while I'm in there" bug and he's currently peeking out from under the couch and seems to be smiling.