The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Shock Removal Suggestions

Funny how one thing leads to another. Just bought a '47 1/2 ton PU. Repaired a leaky gas tank. Noticed the right rear shackle and spring bolts need replacing. Then the rear spring seat looks bad also. My right rear shock needs new grommets and hydraulic oil. My question (finally) is how do I get the bolts attaching the shock off? Apparently they are bolted to the shock through the frame. (single lever) I've PB Blasted them, used an impact wrench on the bolts, tried an long break bar to no avail. I'm tempted to use a torch to heat the bolts but am afraid of heat damaging the shock. I want to clean, paint, fill the shock with oil. I can't get any of the screws off with the shock still attached. Any suggestions?

If like most us old guys you have more than one thing going at once.The PB I allso use and give it a few good back and forth let it set a few days and repeat a few times if you got the time.Time works most the time for me but not allways.Good luck.

There's a spray called (4way) works like a charm. There was also a thread about acetone and trans fluid as a homemade lube/penetrating oil.

Once it stops snowing I will get out "PB" again. I might need a LONGER bar. Ill have to try some other techniques--acetone/trans fluid. I did forget what so many others have mentioned....HAVE PATIENCE! Thanks for your input!!

My right shock is finally removed.Took a bit of 'persuasion' with heat to the bolts. But that worked after I has reapplied PB Blaster. Also managed to loosen the 3 screws on the back of the shock to exposed the internal spring etc. Ready to addoil to the reservoir. Absolutely NO luck removing the valve nut. Driver slot was already badly mangled. reluctant to use any heat on that baby. even a vice grip & PB Blaster not working......YET! Well SLOW progress is better than NO progress. Thanks for all the tips!

if you ever try acetone and trans fluid you will never buy pb blast again. you can make a 1/2 gal for less than $8 [mix what you need and put it in a spray bottle

Did buy some leonard. Will mix it 50-50 and try it the next time I work with rusted fasteners. Thanks for the tip!

Got the shock removed with a alot of help from your suggtestions. There was no filler opening in the back plate to add oil so I removed the 3 stubborn screws and added some oil. Shock seems to work better now. I was a 'little' surprised with the spring in the shock popping up but I survived! In the process of cleaning the shock and then paint, new grommets & pins. Then to the install. Paint the frame in the area. Then install the painted gas tank and straps. THEN I can finally get to the rear spring shackles. Seems like I'm making progress in -18 below weather!!

Last time I took those old knee action shocks off my own 47 it took 3 days. I spent hours on end for that time trying to get them off. God only knows how long they had been there but I suspect they were the same build the factory used and that was the first time ever being off knowing what I know about the trucks past. The main body requires a lot of straight and will. As for the lower arm easy to twist so I recommend buying them before even removing them. It can't hurt anyway so why not? Soak those bolts in PB blaster but rust is not the only thing holding them there. They were torqued down tight.

Well I see I overlooked your comment never mind I suppose lol

I can assure you, if most old farmers are like the long line of farmers I come from, nothing gets changed unless absolutely necessary. My Dad's favorite expression was don't fix it if it ain't broke. He would change the filter and oil in the engine, but very little else. To my knowledge, every car he ever owned was basically ran to death and died with it's original shocks on it. Farm families tend to lean to squeeze dollars and "make do" (another one of his big sayings).