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| | | Forums66 Topics128,077 Posts1,055,932 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | I've only had this 41' a few weeks, but I know I'll be buying another when this one is done. So I've decided to invest in a lift. Anyone have any suggestions/input on what to buy, or NOT buy? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I've been wishful lift shopping... My first choice would be a Mohawk 12,000 lb 2 post, not cheap but you get a whole lot of lift. Second choice is a 12,000lb Rotary 2 post, reasonably priced, good, but perhaps not all they're made out to be, still likely better than most. At least that is what my research lead me to. You may want one smaller or different altogether.
I wouldn't buy a 4 post. Yes better than none but usually more difficult to work around/on in my experience.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 863 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 863 | Challenger 10,000 # is what I have.... | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,961 | Once you work under a 2 post lift, you won't consider anything else. You can do everything from brakes to transmissions. I'm 70 years old and spent many years under a single post and a drive on lift. The drive on lifts were just like a 4 post lift is now, but with a single air over hydraulic ram. I always wondered If I wouldn't be just as well off with an end jack and a creeper. Rotary was the old reliable brand, but there are other good ones out there, But I would stay away from cheap Chinese stuff. If a jack falls, you should have had jack stands on it. If a lift falls, and some of them do, you can hope you are quick enough to get out of the way.
I have been looking at a Mohawk 20,000. Our day cabs weigh about 14k and our sleepers about 16k, but I'm not sure where my lift points would land with the fuel tanks. It sure would be nice for my GMC 550s and my 600 GMC with a 525 Holmes. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Kept my eyes open for a used one for some years now and landed one for a price that I couldn't pass up. Came out of a Toyota dealer who I assume was putting in a larger one. It's a Challenger 7,000 lb., and even though I had my mind set on a 9,000 or 10,000 lb. lift this one will certainly handle any car, truck or farm tractor that I may ever have in the barn, and as I said, the price was right: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/153495580Now, being a one man operation, all I have to do is finger out how to get it installed properly. DG
Last edited by Denny Graham; 12/17/2013 10:27 AM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 | We just had a pair of Rotary 10,000 lb. two post in-ground lifts installed. The cost was comparable to an above ground install. No issues yet! | | | | | Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 568 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 568 | What's average cost of a lift in the 7-10,000lb range?
I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Before answering that question you should decide if you're asking about a good name brand made in the USA or an imported lift?
Many of the imported ones have recognizable names and aren't all "bad" but they're not all the same either. Seems the made in the US lifts are a step above most others and likely a cost a little more. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 | Once you work under a 2 post lift, you won't consider anything else. You can do everything from brakes to transmissions. I'm 70 years old and spent many years under a single post and a drive on lift. The drive on lifts were just like a 4 post lift is now, but with a single air over hydraulic ram. I always wondered If I wouldn't be just as well off with an end jack and a creeper. Rotary was the old reliable brand, but there are other good ones out there, But I would stay away from cheap Chinese stuff. If a jack falls, you should have had jack stands on it. If a lift falls, and some of them do, you can hope you are quick enough to get out of the way.
I have been looking at a Mohawk 20,000. Our day cabs weigh about 14k and our sleepers about 16k, but I'm not sure where my lift points would land with the fuel tanks. It sure would be nice for my GMC 550s and my 600 GMC with a 525 Holmes. The Mohawks are the Cadillac of lifts.
R-Bo
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction) 1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | Well, I struggled a bit on making the final selection, but it's done, and will be installed Jan 6. I went to a shop that had 2 5 year old Rotary lifts, and a relatively new "Revolution RTP10, made across the pond for Rotary, and is ALI/ETL certified. They demo'ed side by side and convinced me on this 10,000lb "Revolution". I am really looking forward to using it! | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | How much did you pay for the Revolution? What were the differences between it and the Rotary? Thanks
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 | Not a single post mentioned Bendpak lifts. Northern sells 'em. See 'em on all the shows. They seem reasonably priced and I thought had all the proper cert's. Is it a southern thing? What did your research indicate about them?
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | My research said Bendpac are good but the US made lifts (Mohawk first, Rotary second) still looked better to me even at the higher cost.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 | Grigg...were you looking to lift some big stuff, or these US made lifts are better across the board? I don't own anything bigger than 3/4 ton.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I personally want a 10 or preferably 12,000 lb lift. If I wanted a smaller one I'd still buy Mohawk or Rotary. If you haven't looked at or researched the Mohawk lifts you ought to, there's a whole lot of steel in them, good solid design built to last near forever if not longer.
Having not bought any lift yet I don't really have much to say other than what I would/will buy when I can. Anyone buying a lift ought to do their own research, see what they think is best suited to their shop, desires, and budget. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | I narrowed it to Rotary and Bendpak. When the Rotary guy came to inspect my facility for space and concrete thickness, he suggested their Revolution based on the projected use and need we have here on the farm. So I went to the local shop mentioned earlier to see side by side. After talking to those guys, price came into play: $575 less than Bendpak and $1700 less than Rotary. All 3 had the safety certifications. I'll speak to using it after a few uses. It is scheduled for installation tomorrow. It is a 10,000 lb lift and service for it, if needed, is within 10 miles with 1 to 2 day turn, parts and lifts in stock. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 | Thanks Farmone. What were the specs for your concrete. I poured a 4" slab in my 30X50 shop myself. How can you be sure the thing is not going to topple over?
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | They require 4 inches of 3000# mix. They really can't check the mix but they drill thru and use a L rod to gauge bottom to top. I had mine poured to a spec of 6 inch and 40000# mix. The columns have a large base plate that is bolted to the floor and it has a tie bar across the top with a cable mechanism to balance out the side to side force. The only difference I saw versus the Rotary was the dimensions of the columns that adds vertical or compressive strength. The Rotary's start at 12000 lbs. Back to front set up, lift arms, was virtually the same. I don't think Rotary would risk their rep by selling something dangerous. They both are subject to, and pass, the same US safety regulations and independent testing. I'll test it to the limit before I spend any time under it, including rocking the hell out of my F150, like the shop guys did with their's. Better the F150 than me! Feel free to ask more questions any time. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 568 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 568 | As a concrete contractor I recommend pouring thicker under the bases of where the lift will be positioned. Little pier footings with a simple rebar grid. If your slab is 4" then just dig another 8"x16"x16" where the feet of the lift will be. 1/2" rebar is plenty strong if it's 60grade. 3000-4000psi is plenty. A house foundation only calls for 3/8" rebar @18" on center and 4" thick 2500psi. I also only use big rock concrete (3/4" pump mix). The minimum I pour is 3000psi. Pea gravel is not structural concrete. It was only intended to grout block walls. It's fine for a walkway or patio. But if you are parking on it, I would pour big rock. Also be sure to let the concrete cure for at least two weeks in this weather.
I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 | Hollow65 - So my 4" slab, no rebar, only what we Texan's call "bull panels", probably 3/16's diameter tops for strength is about 10 yrs old. How much would I have to cut out for a 2 post lift. I'm assuming your advice above is if slab is not yet poured.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 568 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 568 | Yeah that's if it's not poured yet. Just saw cut where the feet will go. A 16"x16" is plenty. Go at least a foot deep. A lot depends on soil conditions. If it's clay like materials go bigger on the footings. If you have good soils like decomposed granite or some other brutal soil you should be fine with a 16"-18" pier footing. A simple rebar grid in the bottom of the footing. 1/2" 60grade minimum. The grid should look like a box. So if you go 18"x18" footing you would cut you rebar in to 12" pieces. You want 3" clearance from soils on all your steel. Also don't pour you concrete too wet as it drastically reduces strength. Let it cure for a good 2 weeks before drilling anchors in to it. Home Depot sells anchors called red heads. They come in 1/2" to 5/8" I would go 5/8" and just follow the directions. We support a lot of weight with those anchors when we set silos for brewery's. Best of luck to ya. You can possibly ask a concrete guy from your area also. Maybe he has a different idea, also it can give you an idea of material cost involved.
Last edited by Hollow65; 01/08/2014 1:19 PM.
I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | All the lift manufacturers give concrete details and what to do if existing isn't sufficient. Pick your lift brand/model and check out their recomendations on that before doing anything. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,084 | Farmone, let us know how the new lift works out. I suspect it will be a little like a trailer. Once you have one, you wondered how you ever did without it.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | For the first few years owning the farm, we didn't have a loader tractor - don't know how we did it. I think it's going to be the same for the new lift, once I get past the " just want to see it go up and down". So, how good or bad it is remains to be a test of time, but I'd have to say at this point that it works well, seems to be very well designed and manufactured, feels safe (is appropriately certified).....and beats the living ..... out of a creeper. I think I'll be recommending it to my friends, with confidence, that I'm not steering them wrong. My reputation means a lot to me! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | Had a need to do an unplanned brake job this weekend. Added a quick oil change while we had it on the lift. Would never have done that with just a jack and a creeper. So what do I have to say about this lift? Revolution may be a very appropriate name - sure changes the game. WOW! | | |
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