The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Bushing stuck in the bracket!!!

54 3100

http://imgur.com/OI0381F
http://imgur.com/cJGml9s
What do I use to get this out so I can put the new bushings & bolts in?

You might need to fab up a puller. Something slightly smaller than the outside diameter to fit up on the bushing, and a piece of heavy walled tubing on the opposite side with a plate with a hole centered in it, welded to it. Put each piece on opposite sides of the bushing with a bolt that will pass through the bushing, then tighten the bolt and pull the bushing through into the piece of tubing. I think there is a tech tip along this line for pulling spring eye bushings.
Another way might be to take a hacksaw blade and cut (carefully) through one side of the bushing wall to relief the pressure of the bushing in the spring eye.

John

Would a torch or dry ice help in the situation?

There may be a chance that the bushing is melded to the bracket, if this is the case will I have to drill it out?

Here is a thread addressing this topic. It refers to the Tech Tip and shows a few sets of "tools".

The bolt in that helpful Tech Tip would break (or, the threads would strip) when I used it on my 1/2 ton pickup, so I "beefed-up" the parts shown in the Tech Tip.

Get a large socket or a piece of pipe that has larger inside diameter than the bushing you are trying to remove. Get a small socket that is a little smaller in outside diameter than the bushing,a piece of threaded rod about 1 ft. long,a couple nuts and washers.
Now the fun starts,on one side of the bushing put the small socket with the open end facing the bushing,insert the threaded rod through the socket/bushing and put the larger socket on the other side with the open end facing the bushing. Now install a couple washers on each end of the threaded rod, with nuts and you now have a bushing removal tool. Tighten the nut on the side with the large socket/pipe, this will pull the bushing out and into the socket/pipe. A little heat probaly wouldn't hurt, but I never had a problem removing the bushings on mine without the heat. Just remember if use nearby just in case.ing heat have a fire exting.

First, file or grind the bushing flush with the bracket to eliminate any wear or peening that makes the bushing overlap the bracket. Then take a hacksaw blade or a sawzall and cut a slot almost all the way through the bushing to allow it to collapse a little and release its hold on the bracket. THEN- - - -fab up a pusher tool such as the ones described in the tech tip. After 50 or 60 years of being there, the bushing isn't going to release its grip willingly. Good luck!
Jerry

Well, I ran into a problem.

http://imgur.com/j5RCMr7
http://imgur.com/CeleW9H

I'm getting just so far and it won't budge, now the 1" ID pipe started to flare. What do y'all suggest?

The pusher is too soft- - - -use a deep well socket or an old piston pin. Once you get some tension on it with a harder pusher, smack it with a BFH after tightening the pusher as close to stripping the thread as you dare. Tighten- - -hit- - - -repeat- - - -!
Jerry

slide a hacksaw blade through the bushing and cut through the wall of the bushing. The cut will allow the bushing to squeeze in and reduce the force needed to press it out.

You can grind a little off the back of a blade if it is too big to fit through.

It is actually easier to cut it through the thickest part of the bushing not the most worn.

I have even made 2 cuts and driven out half at a time with a punch.

Cutting a 32nd into the casting is no big deal.

In case you did not see my post in Tim's link, this is how I do it.

It looks dry, try a little oil on it. Lubrication does wonders.

Dave I printed ur article out before I started, huge help. I would suggest noting that multiple spare parts may be needed. I went through 4 rods, 8 large washers, 2 pipes, and 8 nuts. All for 3 bushings.
http://imgur.com/mNJywxP
http://imgur.com/X6XmWOw

I lubed it like a 2 dollar hooker. It helped.

Also note that it took 2 hrs of quarter turns and 20 whacks w the hammer to get about an inch. It was painfully slow but eventually it gave way.

Truck is done in the rear. Had to get creative as some of the parts weren't easily installed, some bending, some grinding but it's done.

I have to wait on the front leaf springs bc one of the pins got stripped.

I bought the mono leaf springs from Brothers trucks, stock height was 30" in the rear, it's sitting at 24" now. Was only suppose to lower it to 25.5" but I'm not complaining.

http://imgur.com/5WsmI73
http://imgur.com/6SiTsYC

Sounds like you found one of the stubborn ones.
Glad it's over for you!

Thanks Dave, exactly! Everything on this truck has broken at once, it's a project truck that required immediate attention. Engine (day 2), transmission (month 2), rear end (month 2.1), leaf springs (month 2.5). Yep what's next...

Glad you finally got it. Instead of using a threaded nipple I just cut 3" from a 1" black iron pipe which is thicker because no threads were cut into it. I just pulled them all out and thanks to Dave's homemade tool. This is what I had in one of mine. front leaf eyelet bushing fail I guess somebody forgot to do the maintenance huh