The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk floor/toe board install

What should I use to seal the floor board and toe board on my 42?

Take your pick:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/3m600-3.aspx
Body shop supplies and most of your FLAPS
stock it also.

Denny G

Thanks Denny!

Gerry,

The floor board should not be caulked or sealed as it needs to be removed periodically for access to your battery and master cylinder. Also, the toe board was not originally sealed with any material. A floor mat serves as a sealant for water and air infiltration.

Paul

Paul

Mine also serves as a drain for the leaky windshield

Dennis

Fo got about those wooden floor boards Paul, to focused on the
AD versions. Your right, you don't want to seal them up. Might
look into using some closed cell weather-stripping on the
bottom sides though.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

42 would have metal floor boards. Some have rusted out ones have been replaced with wood.

I have a 41 AK and mine are all metal. I don't think they have ever been replaced.

Wood toe or floor boards on 1941-46 models (perhaps 1939-40 as well?) would have been an aftermarket "bubbafication". The original floor board is rather flimsy in comparison to other panels on these trucks, and they did not seem to weather very well.

I bought a nice shiny $95 reproduction floor for mine off of eBay. In retrospect, the repro took more time to fix than fabricating a new one would have taken. Fool me once...

I too bought one of those eBay repop floor boards, about 18 months ago. I've been delayed in trying to check the fit. What problem(s) did you experience?
Thanks

46Sparky,

The reproduction floor board was the correct dimension and fit in the cab fine. The problems were that the master cylinder access hole was in the wrong location (approximately 1.5 inches off but still okay "as is"), the battery access slot was 1.5 inches too far towards the front, and the floor perimeter brake bends were very inconsistent in their depth from one side to the other. My original floor had consistent channel bend depths of 0.50 inches on the 3 sides that should be bent, whereas the reproduction floor varied from 0.50 to 0.75 inches. Nothing fatal, but just needed more work than I thought it should given the price. As I stated before, if I were to do it again, I would just fabricate my own.

I too bought a repop. I had to rework the corners a bit. I just put down a fiber electrical tape on the mating surfaces. I don't think if all is sealed as it should be there is not much water to get in. Everything is primed and top coated. It will be interesting to see if the windshield leaks.

Thanks guys. Looks like another opportunity to spend more quality time on the project.