The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline torque tube removal?

I am thinking about trying to remove the tube from a torque tube rear axle. has anyone taken one apart? It seems to me that there would be a connection from the drive shaft to the pinion, or are they one piece from the trans to the pinion?

If all I need to do is make a ring and bearing retainer for the pinion and figure out a u joint flange for the pinion, it may be doable. This would be on a 46 1/2 ton axle that I may try it on.

If I were to get this figured out, would there be a market for a kit?

Thanks for any help,

jason

A lot of things come to mind.
How to mate the pinion to the yoke.
How to make a good seal.
How to keep the bearing in proper place and pre-loaded.
Net gain from all this work...still have the same ratio with very few if any options.
But hey all is up to you. You might find an advantage I have not seen. And that might be the reason to try.

And this would be easier than using the pumpkin from a 55-62?????

1941-42 3/4 tons came that way from the factory(they modified a 1/2 ton torque tube to open drive).

Look at about page 10 of my photobucket and you can see what it looks like.

Interesting album Gene, never went thru all your documentation
before. Along with Tim Sheridan's site it should be a book mark
for anyone restoring an Art Deco.
What is the yellow that you painted the ring and pinion with
when you were setting it up? I've used red and blue Dykem but
it's not always easiest to see high spots with. The lighter
color looks like it would work great.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Hi Denny:
It has been so long I don't remember what I used. I think it was yellow chalk dust I mixed with something to make it stick. I do remember I took the shims in and out like 6 times one Saturday and gave up. Then it occurred to me to go back to the combination that came with the truck and it was perfect. So anyone out there never give up. The best thing about these old trucks is you can rebuild every part. Now if I ever finish it! Down to installing the headlight buckets and in the spring paint the hood and wheels.

Most gear sets sold today come with a yellowish paste for this set-up.
Here is one product.
Here is some on eBay

Thanks guys, haven't had the pleasure of purchasing a new gear
set, I'm usually just blessed with old hand me down parts that
no one else wants.

Saw a post where they suggested using yellow ochre oil paint,
seems that would work also and easily found at any good paint,
hobby or craft store.

Denny G

Gene, thanks for the pics, it helps alot even if I don't go down this road. I am not ready to give full disclosure as to my intentions as most will think I am goofy. I am not needing a different ratio at this time. Dumb question, but a 55-62 bolts right in? Is the 55-62 complete rear the same width as the 46?

Anyway, How is the pinion located and bearings preloaded? It looks like you press the bearings on the pinion like newer ones and then does it get pressed into the pumpkin and the shims between the bearing and the housing to set depth? I am used to a crush sleeve to set preload but didn't see what I thought was one. Is that a nut on the pinion shaft?

jason

I'm curious about this. I know where a 55 "pumpkin" is. And you're saying I could removethe torque tube and pumpkin from my 41 and replace with the 55? WOW

A 1955-62 1/2 ton pumpkin is a direct swap for a 1/2 ton torque tube from 1940-54. You will need to remount the axle housing solid at the springs.

Not sure about the compatibility. Reading it sounds like some later models will bolt into the axle housing. The adjustment for the pinion is by shims between the bearing and housing. If you use an open drive line I don't how that will all work. The side to side adjustment is made by threaded bearing retainers. I put in the 3:55 ratio gears and that is why I did the work. Check your axles as mine had pits on them and I worked out a spacer that moved the bearings out to a good surface. Good Axles are impossible to find for these years.

Yes that is a nut. The nut is staked in place to keep it from turning.

Again, thanks for the info on yours, it helps quite a bit. If I have it in my head right, I still think that I could modify one to do what I want, but if a later will bolt in, that would be the easiest. I will have to investigate some more, might see if I can find one locally before I go cutting anything.

Will the center out of a 1955 or 1956 passenger or 1956 or 1957 Corvette fit into my 41 panel truck rear? If so, are any other modifications needed to make it an open driveline? I've found a center with 3:55 gears. Thanks

The passenger or Corvette will not work in the pickup housing.

Dave, just off hand do you have a handle on any of the gear
ratios options available in the '55-'62 1/2 ton rear axles?
Such as manual, 3sp., 4sp., automatic, 4x4, V8, 6cyl, etc.

When you say "direct swap" do you mean the original axles
will fit also? Has there been a discussion on solid mounting the
housing? Seems I recall something about just having to lock up
the seat. I would think that would best be done with the torque
tube still made up to the trans to keep the angle correct, no?

I've a friend that is interested in making this swap. He's had a
Muncie 4sp ever since that was the popular trans some time
back. Personally I'd look for a T-5 if I was looking to upgrade
to an open drive line.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I totally agree! I love seeing great restoration photos of these trucks!!! Nice job and great truck!!!!