The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Steering box removal

It seems I've seen this before, but a search hasn't worked yet. I've got the front of my 53 1/2 ton removed - the engine's coming out - and I want to work on the steering box while it's all open. I've read the shop book, but still I wonder, can I remove the steering box without pulling the steering wheel? Just pull all the bolts and slide the box forward?
Karl

No...
Yes, you'll still need to pull the pitman arm too.

You need to remove the pitman arm. Unbolt the steering box from the frame. Remove the steering wheel. Remove the steering column from the dash support bracket. Remove the firewall steering column boot/cover. Then pull the entire assemble out the firewall and out from the engine compartment.

In other words, by the book - no short cuts. Oh well

Sir, I would not unbolt the lengthy steering column from its box. Why? Now you be into disassembly of the steering worm gear and its innards, which is subject to the loss of lots of bearing balls and quite complicated. If it works fine, leave it alone. Why do I know? Previous owner on mine took it apart to trailer it and I ended up using another one from a doner vehicle. My opinion. Thanks Karl. V/R, Nick Cavallaro, Bel Air, MD

Unfortunately mine does not work fine, it leaks profusely. It does keep the left leaf spring nicely lubricated. But I hope I can be psychologically prepared for the task to come.
Karl

With the whole front clip off removing the steering column is a
simple 10 or 15 minute job Karl. Hardest part will be pulling
the pitman arm but that's not a problem with a pitman arm
puller. Here's one that's sold here in the states but your
parts store should have a similar one and some rent them out:
http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html

Don't be afraid to rebuild the gear once it's out of the truck.
The kits are sold by all the vendors as are the booklets
describing the rebuild. And thanks to Brad here's a film strip
of the rebuild he's posted on his site also:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/sets/72157632210242370/

Here are a few pictures to get you going:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/steering&page=all

Denny Graham
Steering clear in Sandwich, IL

Thanks for the support, Denny. I actually own a pitman arm puller, I bought it for working on my '41. It didn't fit that pitman, but it fits the truck. So if removal is as easy as you say I'm in the clear. I have already ordered the rebuild kit.
Generally speaking, removing parts is not my greatest concern - getting it all back in the right place is my problem. I was thinking that if I could leave the steering column in place I might not have to mess with the shift linkage later.

Karl

Naw, the steering shaft is welded to the worm so the whole
works, mast jacket and all, has to come out to service it.
If you can build an organ Karl, this steering gear is a simple
project for you.
If the sector shaft is worn, which is usually the reason they
leak, then you may want to look into a "speedi-sleeve", again,
should be able to order the right size from an auto parts supply.
The film strip describes the sector shaft seal as a packing but
your new seal will be a standard neoprene lip seal.

If you have a farm implement dealer around you they will
have "corn head grease", a lot of the guys are using the
John Deere product because it is thin enough that it will flow.
What ever you do don't pack it with chassis grease, that will
form pockets void of any lubrication and starve the ball cages.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

What confidence, Denny. Lots of competent folks (like me?) succeed in making hash of projects for which they aren't so well prepared.
As for the corn head grease, whenever I am in the States I load up on things I know I'll be needing, so I've got a good supply of that stuff. On the other hand, my Flaps looks at me a little strange even when I ask for plastigage, not to mention a speedi-sleeve. On the steering box for the '41 a local machine shop had to turn down the slightly worn sector shaft, insert some kind of phosphor bronze sleeve, and ream it out to fit the newly turned shaft. Hopefully they can find a solution for whatever I find in this steering box.
darn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!

Karl, I'm no mechanic and I had to take out my steering column, thought it would be almost impossible to get it out and then back together. It was actually a lot easier than I thought. I had to take the driver's seat out (easy in the panel) and the diagonal brace from the inner fender to the firewall. Good luck with it.

If you're using a puller to remove the steering wheel, no worries.
If you're using the shortcut of bumping the underside of the wheel with your forearms to knock it loose, be sure to leave the nut on with enough threads to capture the wheel when it breaks loose. Otherwise, you may end up with a bloody nose.

regards,
Leon

Well I have removed the steering column. Simple? Maybe, if the definition is no broken parts and no bodily injury. The square nuts holding the column to the dash weren't so easy to lock up while loosening the bolts. I ended up removing the instrument cluster for that task, and I had to make my own steering wheel removal jig - twice, since the first one failed.
I've got all winter to do the rebuild. The parts are on the way. The work in your pictures Denny looks so professional I want to throw my tools in the lake and try my hand at baking instead.

Now see, that's what I ended up doing with the upright piano I
tried restoring. Bet that would have been a piece of cake for
an organ builder. So you see, we all have some sort of
specialty that comes easy for us. I feel most comfortable
when I'm in front of a lathe or mill.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL