The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop frame alternatives for 47-55 pickups

I just brought home a 1951 5-window that I would like to make into a daily driver for my wife. I have recently seen 2 similar vehicles mounted on square-body (73-87) frames. I have a 91 model chevy shortbed pickup frame available for this. It has same wheelbase as a short-bed square-body. The point of the later frame is to have a ready-made, stock, modern suspension, brakes, engine mounting, etc that would be more conducive to daily driving on Texas interstate highways. Is there anyone out there with experience in these kind of frame upgrades? Any advice on what to do or what NOT to do?

Well, You have two options. First option: You can make a nice safe daily driver by using the stock frame with "modern" aftermarket power steering, power disc brakes, bearings and new body mount rubber and suspension bushings, etc. Sounds like a lot of work but less than a frame swap. Second option: Frame swap; There are many issues with the swap. Among them are, building new body mount brackets (cab, bed, front clip, radiator, gas tank) and transmission tunnel fit, steering adapt, electrical adapt, bumper mounting, wheel well fits, frame shape problems, shock mounting, body nest to frame, pedal adapt, ebrake adapt, gas tank filler.... it could turn out to be ugly, time consuming and worth nothing in the end. It will seem cheaper because you have a frame already but beware the gremlins. All of the modern aftermarket kits will be maybe $1500. It ALL bolts on with a small amount of possible welding. The folks here have done it both ways and will give their experience. My experience tells me to do the first option. I am commenting on this without knowing what you brought home. I don't know how complete it is, what condition, what drivetrain? or what mods have been done or what your budget is.

Bartamos, thanks for responding. My 51 is pretty complete, but there is alot of it that I don't want. For example I want to replace the 216/235 engine and 3-on-the-tree trans with a 4.3 v6 or a 305 or 327 v8 and a TH 350 or TH 400 or maybe 700R4. It has the old enclosed driveshaft rear axle which I want to replace with one of the more modern ones that I have. The body is pretty straight with surface rust but no cancer. it is my understanding that the rear leaf spring suspension is pretty good to use, but i want independent front suspension. The aftermarket kits for $1500 you referred to - are they for adapting a modern IFS and PS/PB/etc? Can you suggest some of the more popular vendors for these? As for the wiring, I expect i will have to completely replace all that, as well as the gages

The $1500 was the approx. price of the items I mentioned: "You can make a nice safe daily driver by using the stock frame with "modern" aftermarket power steering, power disc brakes, bearings and new body mount rubber and suspension bushings, etc." As far an ISF, I am not up on that. If you are rich, buy a Fatman fully loaded chassis $8500 and slap her on there! Google Fatman Fabrications to get some ideas. Scroll down to 47-54. They have IFS also.

Another option is a S-10 frame as well. But if depends on what you want in terms of ride height and finished look. The 91 half ton has a wide track width and makes it difficult to lower the truck very much if that's what you're into, but it would make it into a good decent half-ton everyday truck, if you don't want it lowered.

Bartamos, I find it funny that you're commenting on how hard a frame swap is when it seems as though you've never done one. Many of the parts you mention were taken from the donor swap on my frame swap. With some fabrication skills they're the way to go any day.

I have done the aftermarket component approach, not frame swaps, that is true. That gives me a view of one method and I can comment and describe what would need to be done for a frame swap. I have studied frame swaps, I've had bodies off of chassis and can see the problems in matching the items I spelled out. I can comment as much about my choice as you can of yours. My engineering career enables me to analyze different ideas without trying all of them. As goes without saying, I am giving my opinion using my knowledge. Until now you are the only other responder and you have chosen to find my post "funny". Your "advice" has no information, no specifics, no rebuttal to all the concerns I mentioned. Have you done both ways so as to know if I'm wrong? If so, lets see some pics and advise on how to handle all I said. I did not say you can't do a swap, I said it's harder to make everything come out looking/fitting/operating right. I have never put in a computer controlled injected V8 in a truck either, but I know it's easier to put in a carb engine. Common sense tells you that installing the many aftermarket, modern, safety for his wife, components which are made for the specific truck to be mostly bolted in, is way easier than working out the list I gave for frame swap. I did after all say "It ALL bolts on with a small amount of possible welding. The folks here have done it both ways and will give their experience. My experience tells me to do the first option." Aye? Peace brother engineer.

if your frame is good i would put a fatman front end in.they are custom made for your truck simple to do and you no not have to build everything to remount the front sheet metal or the cab and bed. comes with power steering and disc brakes i put one under my 35 and my wife likes the way it drivesand stops. if you want to use the frame you have get a tape measure and check out both frames for width in several places kick up at rad mount height bed kick up and where the body will mount. seen many a good truck die because of a frame swap but i have done it another way is to sub frame it with a 68-79 nova

The first thing is to take a lot of measurements. It's important not only that the wheelbase is where you want it, but also the track width, frame width, etc. The S-10 is a popular swap for the AD because of how nicely it fits under it. In my opinion it works particularly well if you want a lowered look, but it also works if you want a higher look with the use of wheel spacers on the front and a wider differential.

There are several reasons I much prefer the frame swaps:
-The front and rear suspension are engineered to work together.
-The front and rear brakes are engineered to work together.
-You get modern handling and ride that were engineered to ride that way.
-You can go to any NAPA and get a chassis, suspension, or brake part, if you choose a common frame to use.
-The structural components of the frame are as they were and have not been modified, including crumple zones and crash areas. The S-10 frame in particular has a widened area under where the S-10 cab sits for crash protection.

In my swap I used many parts from the S-10, including the steering column, brake booster/steering column brace, brake booster, all brake lines, pedals, emergency brake, fuel tank, seat. There are probably more things I missed. My floor is completely flat on my Art Deco, but the Advanced Design may require a floor hump for the transmission depending on the setup you use and where it is mounted on the frame. I used most of the stock S-10 body mounts, just relocated to fit with my cab. Doing an AD is even easier.

Yes, there is more fabrication and thought involved, but I have driven enough vehicles that have gone the Mustang II route that don't ride or handle right because of mismatched front/rear end, and then they have difficulty finding parts years down the road because the part depends on what year of car the front kit was based off of, and you don't always know. I know my frame is an 85, and since most of the S-10 parts never changed (for chassis or suspension), if I break down anywhere I shouldn't have too much trouble finding a replacement part. Yes, it can be harder to get everything looking right, but in the end I believe the finished product is MUCH better.

For wiring I used a harness kit. I used a Painless. It was good, but next time I might try a different kit. But the nice thing was that since I got the kit for a GM column, the wiring plugged right into all the switches on the column and made things a lot easier.

A frame swap won't be done in a day, but I wouldn't do it another way.

Joseph,

There are many ways to beat a dead horse and more views on the way to build a truck. I spent $50.00 bucks on CL for a 4x4 Frame..take your time have fun and enjoy it.

I'm not a purist, but I don't like going that far from stock. You can get what you want either way. I prefer the aftermarket approach keeping/updating original frame. I enjoyed it and wouldn't do it any other way. I also like just renewing the original components with stock type replacement parts. Many of the aftermarket brakes, etc. use very available GM parts. I've converted to 4X4 using original frame also. All of the aftermarket parts are "engineered" to work with your other components. It's your call. good luck.

Joseph,
Did you ever determine what route you will be going? I just bought an S-10 that I will be doing a frame swap on. I am currently doing research on GM Vortec engines because I plan on putting in with a 4L60 or 6L80 behind it. These motors are everywhere. I'm sure the electrical part will be a challenge, but I don't anticipate the steel work to be all that difficult.

Electrical isn't that hard if you get the aftermarket harness to incorporate the stock Fuel injection and computer. The fabrication isn't hard if you have some fabrication skills and patience.