The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 39 to 4X4

I'd like to extend my driving time, I use this truck ( pickup 1939 3/4 ton) a lot but it just doesn't play well in snow, I sell a lot of firewood this time of year, and mud is also an issue, so thinking about making it 4X4, anyone have any suggestions, sub frame, ? I saw one with a toyota under it, but they had the steering box sticking out the front fender, not crazy about that set up, it looked good otherwise, open for all punishment on this old topic.
brock

To bad you couldn't find a Napco conversion 4 x 4 setup from an early 50's Chevy/GMC. But they are few and far between, I've only ever seen one.
If the truck is a long wheelbase, would make it harder. They use to use Jeep Wagoneer chassis under the 1/2 tons. Said they lined up well.

John

I have a '41-'47 GMC(similar to a '39) I converted to 4WD. Used full width, 10 bolt front axle from Blazer, found(rare) full width front fenders. Not so usefull for your application, you could just use Wagoneer or some other (correct width for your '39) axle(match ratios w/ rear axle). While at it, it would be useful to parallel the front springs and put the fixed perch on the front for better ride, not necessary, however. Used a Scout power steering box, mounted to the frame-pittman arm must extend forward of the box, crossover steering, whatever trans/transfer case you wish( I used a 542 and 241D) Have to be careful to get axle knuckles w/ the correct ratio w/ pittman arm, Scout front axle complicated because of long steering arms on knuckle, steering arm has odd ends. Have px.

The import pickups are going to be the only ones I know of that have an axle that is narrow enough to fit under the fenders properly. They typically will be either 4.10 or 4.88 gear and 6 bolt pattern. Find that first and then match the t case to which side the drive shaft is on the axle.

If you are wanting to keep it GM, you will have to start with a S10 which I think would not be ideal for your app. Another option that is not as bad as most think is to have the dana 44 or 8.5 10 bolt cut down to proper width. Narrowing a housing is not hard and then you order custom axle shafts from Moser or Currie etc. They are not very much more than new replacements if you don't get the biggest and strongest ones but they will be stronger than the stock axle shafts which is not a bad thing. This will get you disc brakes and open knuckle steering and very common parts like bearings, seals, rotors, pads calipers etc. You can also get any ratio for them to match whatever rear you want.