The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Not getting fuel

I'm having an issue with my '70 C10 not getting fuel to the carb. This truck had been sitting up for over a year until July of this year when I pulled the fuel tank and emptied all of the old gas, changed the points and was able to get it to start but never ran properly. Never did get it back on the road so it sat up again until today when I decided to try once again to get it running. I first removed the old inline filter and noticed that it was bone dry and installed a new filter. I next disconnected the fuel line from the fuel pump on the inlet side and only had a few drops of gas come out of the line. Next I removed the sender from the tank and blew air through all the lines to make sure there was no obstruction. Reinstalled the sender and all lines, put 4 gallons of fresh gas in the tank and tried to start the engine. After several attempts I noticed no fuel getting to the new inline filter so I changed the fuel pump using an old pump that I had removed a couple of years ago. Tried again to start the engine but still getting no gas to the filter or carb. My problem now is that I have no idea if both pumps are bad or if there is another problem that would be causing it not to get fuel. Is there a way to check a mechanical pump? I tried pushing the pump arm but it is so stiff that I can't get it to move. Didn't have the pump in a bench vise, just trying to do it by hand. This is a pump for a 350 engine if that makes any difference. Sorry for the long winded post but just trying to give as much info as possible.

Might make sure the line from the tank to the pump is not blocked off. Take the fitting or hose loose from where it attaches to the fuel pump and take an air nozzle and see if you can push air through the line to the tank. Have the gas cap off and someone listening at the filler neck to see if they here it bubbling inside.

If they can hear it bubble inside then you are likely okay with the supply line to the pump.

It's rare, but I have seen the lobe on the camshaft that drives the fuel pump wear to the point that it will not work the fuel pump.

Not meaning to say you don't know what your doing so this is just an idea. Did you install the pump with the push rod up into place? Second, it is quite common for the gas line from the tank to the pump to clog up with crud. As Roy said make sure it is open. Good luck, get her on the road!

This is probably a stupid question, but when you say you made attemepts to start your engine, did you pour gas down the throat of the carb?

Victor

All good points but all those things were taken care of. The line from the tank to the pump is clear. As stated, we did disconnect all the lines and blow through them with compressed air and also removed the sender unit from the tank to make sure it wasn't clogged. Also, the push rod was up in place when the pump was installed. I may be wrong about this but if the rod isn't up, wouldn't that make it impossible to even get the pump in place since the pump arm has to fit under the push rod? I doubt the camshaft lobe is worn down much, if any, since this is a remanufactured engine with less than 4000 miles on it and yes, we did pour gas down the carb and the engine started but only ran long enough to burn off the gas. We did that several times and it started each time but still no gas is being pumped to the see through inline filter or carb. My guess is that the pump diaphragm is bad but just wanted to get opinions before purchasing another pump and wanted to make sure I'm not overlooking something.

If I may make a suggestion how about running a rubber fuel line from your gas can to the Carb and see if it will run with a Gravity feed source. I did this with my 49 when I was trying to get it started.

Brian, that would work to get the engine started but doesn't solve the fuel pump issue I'm having.

You are correct. Sorry lost sight of the end goal. I would just pick up a new pump. Odds are they are both bad.

I would look for a dry rotted piece of hose, in the fuel line. had that happen years ago and just about drove me crazy. (would be a short trip). On a 81 pickup, have to be careful also when replacing the hose that it doesn't get kinked.

Hook the gas can hose to the inlet of pump Not the carb.. This will prove if the pump is working and eliminate all the fuel system except from pump to carb. There is a bolt on front of engine that holds the rod up while installing pump, makes it a lot easier. If you left the long bolt there or installed a long bolt by mistake...bad.

What condition/age are the rubber lines in the fuel system? While they may seem to be clear blowing air through them, they might be collapsing when the pump is pulling vacuum on them.

Bartomas, I will try the gas can line to inlet side of the pump to see if the pump is actually bad. No worries about the bolt on the front of the engine since that hasn't been messed with and the truck did run fine in the past before it sat up for a couple of years.

LONGBOX55, all the sections of rubber fuel line were replaced back in July so I would think they are still fine but will inspect them all again.

I appreciate all of the replies and hope to get this old gal back on the road shortly. It is a shame that I spent 6 years (2001-2007) completely reworking the entire truck and then it basically just sat in the yard from late 2010 until now. I started having health issues and honestly the truck just took a back burner to the other things I had going on. Now that my health is much improved I want to get the truck going again.

If you have a mechanical pump easy way to check it is to actuate the arm and see if it pumps. There are small check valves that can stick if gas get gummy.

Get some hose, attach a piece to the inlet of the pump and the other in some WATER (no need to shot gas everywhere). Hole the pump at the same height or lower than the water and move the lever... it should pump. If not, rebuild/replace.

I tried to actuate the arm of the pump but can't get it to move. How hard should it be to pump the arm?

It takes two men and a mule to move that lever. Let the engine do it. Don't worry about the lines/hoses until after the gas can test. As has been said, you probably have two bad pumps. $19.99 and you are running again!

Thanks again guys. I'll give it the gas can test tomorrow and go from there.

aw, just do it like these guys I knew up in Alaska, they just bungee corded a 5 gallon outboard tank to the roof.

I got a new fuel pump today and am finally getting fuel to the carb but now have a new problem. The carb (Edelbrock 1405) isn't pumping fuel. I took the carb off the intake for an inspection and found the bowls full of fuel but the pump assembly wouldn't deliver fuel into the carb throat. I thoroughly cleaned everything and all jets and passages are open. Put a little gas into the pump bowl and it sort of worked. It would spray gas into the throat sometimes and sometimes not. Reinstalled the carb on the engine hoping it would work but it won't spray any fuel at all now and therefore no joy on getting my truck to run. Guess I need to get a rebuild kit.

Went I start working on engine that's been sitting for as long as your has, I will clean everything the best I can (as you have) and also put fuel filter everywhere: between the fuel tank and the pump and between the pump and carb. It doesn't take long for the bad/varnished gas to mess everything up.
Good luck,
Victor

Your carb has a bad accelerator pump. Dried out, not sealing. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-1826/_/N-25vm?itemIdentifier=10722_0_0_
Edelbrock 1405 is a good carb, (carter AFB). Easy to rebuild, two piece. You are almost there. Adding to what VEW said: Bad gas will ruin a carb AND an engine. Hope you cleaned that tank real good. Filter can let "varnish" thru. Change fuel filter every 50-100 miles a few times.

Yep, cleaned the tank as best I could and did install a new see-through inline filter between the fuel pump and the carb and put fresh gas in the tank. Gas at the filter looks really good, meaning no trash that I can see. I looked at the accelerator pump and noticed a very small piece missing along the bottom edge so figured it was pretty much the culprit but was hoping it was good enough to at least get the truck running today.

Thanks for the link Bartomas, I will pick up a new accelerator pump tomorrow at the local Auto Zone. I wasn't aware they were available separately, thought I would need a rebuild kit to get that part.

Just an example. may be cheaper elsewhere or a whole kit may be about as cheap. Hope you getter running.

Got the new accelerator pump installed in the carb yesterday and the old girl came back to life. Still needs some tuning; new spark plugs, adjust the timing and check the dwell as well as an oil change but at least she cranks up and runs good enough for now to get all warmed up and get the fluids flowing. After sitting up for the past couple of years it was great just to hear her run again.

I've had similar issues with old Holley carbs. They don't like to sit. Rebuild kits are like $20 and only take about an hour. Good luck with your ride.

Just rebuilt my dual 780's 2 months ago. Due to a cracked throttle plate on the rear carb. Ordered one from summit and it came machined wrong. The butterfly's would bind and not open all the way. Only about 1/4 throttle. Carbs are fickled lil things. I also run multiple filters. Have one about 6" from carb fuel rail.