The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Pulling '46 1.5T Dually Rims???

Howdy All --- I am still trying to confirm the process for pulling the rear dually wheels off a '46-1.5T.

They are on a bare frame, all lug nuts off but the rims wont budge. Just want to make sure there is nothing but rustweld holding them on. There appears to be a separate plate under the lugs but it almost looks like part of the axle assembly. If they are supposed to come off after removing nothing but the lugs I will try the chain & jack technique but just wanted to make sure before applying a big load. Hard to believe that are as secure as they seem but rust can be a mother. Any ideas?

If you have the lug nuts all off the wheel is just stuck. They are hub-centric wheels so they fit tight on the hub, so it doesn't take much to keep them from moving. The spacer plate will come off with the wheels.

One side of my truck came off alright, but the inside wheel on the other was a bear. I didn't have to use a chain and jack though so I guess it could have been worse.

Make sure you apply some shock when you have it jacked(i.e. hammer and bar) Pulling alone may well bend/break something. The shock will make everything vibrate and move when under pressure. Also make sure you have the lug nuts threaded on so nothing goes flying if it suddenly gives loose.

Tad

Many thanks Tad. While it didn't make sense that I needed to remove anything but the lugnuts, I couldn't believe how thoroughly frozen all the rear wheels are. Been soaking them for days with penetrant but even when I whack'em with a sledge it sounds like the rims and entire rear end are one solid chunk of iron. Even tried driving a steel weddge between the inner & outer wheel but still no budgee. I think hydraulics may be the only answer but I am going to try a bunch of heat this time as well.

Just for the record --- today I broke down and rented an 11 ton hydraulic port-a-power with a small (4") head. Combined with more penetrant, an oxy/acetylene torch, a 2 pound sledge, a 10 pound sledge, lots of wood spacers, half a dozen chisels and a really big steel wedge...I managed to remove the two outer duallies in only about 5 hours!

Something tells me I gotta' arrange things on the new unit a little better or my pit times at the track are really gonna suck.

If the rims are removed often enough you won't have any problems putting them on and off. If the truck is stored inside you would likely never have a repeat of the problem. It's not a bad idea to pull everything apart every few years at least to check bearings and brakes.

I have a '51 International L190 wrecker. I have no idea when the wheels were last off it before I got it. It has dayton hubs, I got the outer wheels off and then the spacer ring off without too terribly much hassle, the inner wheels were locked on solid. I had to use a blunt chisel to shock the rust out from between the rim and the hub. If you're not familiar with dayton hubs/rims the rim fits loosly on the hub against a larger diameter tapered surface on the back side and all is clamped together from the outside to center it all. The point being the rim was rusted in place in a position it couldn't stay on if all was free. When I had to change rims a few years later all came apart easily like it should.

On our '46 trucks the rim is made to fit the rim closely as that is what centers the wheel....so rusting in place is made all the easier. With regular maintenance you can get your pit time down. Make sure you put some grease or anti-seize on the hub when you put it all back together as well.

Tad

Roger the anti-seize Junger...great idea.

GM 14 bolt FF axles are cheap, plentiful, disc brake kits available. If your bolt pattern is 10 rear, 5 front, there are Dana 70, 80's with this pattern, matching fronts off same truck, make life a lot easier, however, 19.5 wheels work OK, but look small in fenders. 22.5 wheels are rare, look original. Depends on use and how original one wants to be.