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#981646 10/26/2013 9:48 PM
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 212
6
'Bolter
'Bolter
6 Offline
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 212
I have a 58 3100 with a 235.If the truck is running in the morning to warm up with the heater running the amp gauge shows a discharge.If the lights are on it shows even more discharge. The only time there is a charge is when I am on the road running, then the amp gauge jumps to the plus side of the gauge. Does this stock system only charge when a certain rpm is reached ? I have replaced the generator with an alternator.

6571 #981649 10/26/2013 10:21 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
if you've changed to an alternator, it's not a "stock system", when it starts charging will depend on the particular alternator and it's internal [?] regulator .... when you first fire it up, try reving it until you see a charge

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Flxible #981663 10/26/2013 11:32 PM
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 212
6
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 212
The type of alternator is an early 70s 10SI 3 wire . It has the average amps because there is nothing extra on the truck but a heater. It will show a charge after I shift into second gear but my concern was when idling in the morning when it is cold with the heater running it shows a minus draw. If I turn the truck off after the warm up the power is not restored back to the battery.So should I not run the heater or lights until I actually start out on the road?

6571 #981670 10/27/2013 12:13 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
certainly there's no reason to have the lights on when you're sitting idling, and until the engine is up to temp, it doesn't do much to be running the heater .... I'd say you have it wired wrong, the alternator isn't sensing the draw and the accessories are running off the battery - or maybe the alt has a bad regulator, a 3 wire alt should be putting out plenty of current at idle ... maybe read here, and other info from Mad ... and of course a multi-meter could tell you just what's happening in terms of the battery being charged or not

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
6571 #981678 10/27/2013 1:10 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,440
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,440
If it is the alternator with the external regulator it has to hit a certain rpm before it kicks in. After it kicks in it will charge at idle.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
6571 #981701 10/27/2013 3:44 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,674
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,674
Just goose the throttle after startup. Once the internal regulator senses sufficient RPM once, the engine can charge at idle for as long as necessary. It just needs a quick speed increase once to make the regulator kick in. Later-model internal regulators don't need the RPM jump- - - -just the older style ones.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
6571 #981712 10/27/2013 4:47 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
My ammeter doesn't read correctly either. I don't think it likes my one wire alternator. But that's too bad, because I don't like fussy generators and voltage regulators. Me and my truck just agree to disagree, just like me and my wife. I think I will change out the ammeter for a voltage regulator and buy my wife flowers for no reason.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 212
6
'Bolter
'Bolter
6 Offline
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 212
That goosing the engine explains why the needle only goes to the positive side after I hit second gear. Then there is a definite rpm setting that triggers the regulator to cut in .After a minute or so the needle will come back to the half mark and during continued driving it will lean in and out of the plus side.


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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