The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Edit - Bought a 1927 1 ton

Hi guys, I am in the process of getting a 27 chevy truck from a fellow member here and I had a few questions about them.
The first is that I am unsure yet of whether we will try to go bone stock or updated some. The thing that I would like to consider is getting hyd brakes on it. I have read that the front axle from a newer one will bolt on. The thing that I do not know about is the wood wheel mounting method. How do the wood wheels mount to the hub or spindle? It is the 20" wheels with a steel rim but wooden spokes. At this time I think that I would like to keep the wood wheels, I wouldn't get so lucky that the wood wheels would bolt to a newer hub would I?

I have a couple parts trucks, one a 1/2 ton 46 and a 1.5 ton 40 with duals. I thought that it might be a possibility to use either of these axle sets on the 27. Should they bolt on in place of the 27's? I do not think that I want to modify it other than bolt on stuff.

Another question/consideration I have is that if the original 4 cyl does not look to be useable, will a 235 fit in the engine bay? My guess is that it would be too long.

I will stop here and let everyone catch up,

Thanks for any help,

Jason

I would be afraid of the wood spoke wheels and better brakes. Those wheels were designed for low speeds and little brakes. I would guess the tires are fairly narrow? If thats the case, they will just slide anyway if you lock the brakes.
My uncles Stanley Steamer had very tall narrow tires, in the steam circles, everyone was installing hydraulic brakes thinking they could go faster since they could stop better. Turns out the tread width determines stopping power and distance. If driven at the speeds in which it was designed for, factory brakes and tires will do a perfect job. His steamer only had rear drum brakes about 1.5" wide, it would stop OK when driven as designed, and full loaded with water and fuel weighed in around 4000 lbs.

Joe

Joe, thanks for bringing up the strength of the spokes. I had not given that alot of thought. Really my only thoughts on 'better' brakes would be to have Something on the front as it is only rear stock.

Yes the tires are very narrow, I think nominal size is 6.00x20, so probably less than 4" on the ground.

the original wheels will not bolt up to a brake drum - what do you plan on using the truck for? stock would be fine for parades and shows, won't make a highway machine for sure, and I suspect a 235 would be way too long .... might want to get hold of Dean to discuss things or maybe Steve

Bill

Hi, Jason, You may want to join the VCCA ( Vintage Chevrolet Club of America ). They have a active 4 cylinder group that goes on tours and have experts on the 4 cylinder to contact. If the 4 cylinder is too far gone you may want to check out the Merc Cruiser 3 Liter 4 cylinder out of sterndrives.( Still made today) It does not have a vacuum advance on the distributor, but it does have a mechanical advance, it is a over head valve engine. I am not sure what car engine it is based on, maybe the chevy II from the 60"s. Have Fun, Brian

It's best uses are stock for show/fun or rat rod with just body. I think normal restomod approach is not suitable. Too many old, old features to deal with: frame strength, axles, steering, suspension, brakes, motor, trans...by the time you are done moderizing, nothing left but the body. It really depends if it's "all there" or not. If it's mostly all there and reasonable shape it would be very sad to "lose" it. Most in the gallery are refreshed to near original. Take a look at the 16-35 gallery and get some ideas and PM those guys.

Thanks guys, as for planned useage, a parade or in town cruiser is what I have in mind. It is mostly there from what I can tell, other than the wood. I own a cnc router/wood shop and I am thinking of turning it into a depot hack. Something that the full family can ride it at the same time. I am not worried about the lack of the wood, I can replace that and finish it easier than regular metal body work with paint.

I would rather leave the original engine, just going to have to assess it when we get it home.

jason

Super!!!

I have sure spent alot of time looking at pics and trying to figure out what they have stock etc. I have had my 37 for over half my life, but like you said this one is a couple generations older than that and it is very cool to think about all the systems that are Not there. I had checked out the gallery before I had even asked for pics of the truck. I also searched through the threads here to see what if anything was on here. There is just not alot of info about them, you have to dig deep to find it. I didn't even think of it being a 4cyl until I saw a pic of another one. I am sure I knew it at one time, but didn't remember it.
I think that it will be about the same as a newer truck to fix up because on one hand there are less systems and parts to fix than a newer one, but the trade off is that there is less info and availability of parts and experience with them.

It may be a slow process as it will be for my Dad and he is a few hours away. If I can get him to get the engine together and running, I can work on the new body after lots of measurements and then at some point get the two together.

The only thing that I am really concerned with at the moment is the radiator, or lack of one actually. I looked and I see that I can buy new honeycomb or new new style, both are very expensive. I am hoping that I can make another one I have fit in the grille shell and look like it is supposed to be there, if not we will just have to save up for it I guess.

Do any of you know if the radiator is even remotely the same size as the late 30's - 40's radiators?

I am getting closer to going to pick the truck up and it is far enough away that I am not going to use my own truck and trailer. I am wanting to know if there is anywhere that I can look up the weight of the truck. It is a little less than complete. It is just a cab - no bed - and single wheel, not a dually.
Any ideas?

Thanks, Jason

It worked out to go get the truck last weekend and it is now at my parents house. I took lots of measurements and I am in the see what we got and make a plan stage.
Dean - Lurchs' caretaker was a great help with some info as to how heavy it is etc. He also told me that it is actually a commercial chassis and the body would have been a coach built. The engine is not complete, not sure which direction we will go with it yet. One thing, there is plenty to do.

[IMG]http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee466/macgyver37/27pass.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee466/macgyver37/27frt.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee466/macgyver37/Springfield-page12-C39.jpg[/IMG]

Most folks will see a pile of rubbish. I see a very nice truck!!
Let the fun begin. Please keep us posted. I have always been a fan of the 27-29's. Great "save".

Well, ironically the thing that makes most pass on it is what makes it a doable project for me. The fact that it came from the factory as a chassis with only a hood and fenders means that there are not any cab body parts that are skinned over wood. It means that I can build a body from scratch and I don't have to try and fix or duplicate the door skins, etc. I can just draw up what I want and order in a pile of wood and get the cnc router going on it. I know that is oversimplified, but this body is easier for me to build than if it were a 4 door car with metal skins for sure. I am running a cnc wood shop for a living, so it shouldn't be hard to do it once I find the time.

The rolling chassis is in better shape than others I have brought home. The left front fender is the worst, with the hood being bent the next worst. The running boards, splash pans and such are in good shape. I really think that the 3 big ticket items are the tires, the radiator and then the bundle of wood. Tires are $170-205 each plus tubes and rim liners. The radiator is app $675 for brand new and the wood - no idea yet, but I think it will be app $500 unless I build seats/pews too, then it may be more.