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| | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 | All,
As I begin to put the brake system back together, I would like to replace the bolts, nuts, etc with stainless steel.
First, is this idea ok or are there any issues I need to know about?
Second, where is the best source for stainless bolts, nuts, screws, etc?
And finally, what is the best way to spec the bolts, nuts, etc. Seems my parts catalog isn't very specific about the bolts and nuts unless I am missing something.
Thanks!
jose | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | In my opinion it's not smart or worth replacing everything with stainless steel.
There are numerous grades of stainless hardware, the cheaper stuff is weak. The good stuff is quite expensive, it's not always easy to know what you're getting.
Stainless is prone to galling, especially when used with stainless nuts, so anti-seize is very important.
I do like to use stainless for little details, trim screws, non critical stuff that is hard to keep painted or not painted at all. I wouldn't use stainless fasteners for critical engine, suspension, brake, or frame hardware.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 | ok, thanks Grigg, that is what I needed to know!
jose | | | | | Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 55 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2013 Posts: 55 | https://www.boltdepot.com/ is where I order stainless in bulk. Great prices. If you try and use the local hardware stores you will get nickle & dimed to death.
LOS ANGELES, CA
48 FLEETLINE AERO, 50 CANOPY EXPRESS
52 SUBURBAN, 57 BIG WINDOW Pickup, 64 Malibu CV
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Brake system? On what? Only bolts I know about are backing plate bolts, wheel cylinder attaching bolts, banjo bolts and if you have disc calipers, they have bolts? There is no special corrosion or strength consideration there.
I agree with Grigg. Grade 5 at hardware store or "hardware" store. Everybody gets up tight about bolts, but they never break.
As far as spec-ing them. Not sure what you mean by that. But they are spec-ed by: diameter-no of threads per inch-courseness-class: 4-40 UNC-2B or just 4-40. If you mean what size to get, get same size as bolts you are replacing. (In a Tap and Die set, there is a thread gauge that tells you the pitch and your calipers tells you the Dia.) Nothing wrong with cleaning up your bolts and reusing. If they are not rusted, they are as strong as day one. You always need new lock washers. Only a museum piece would need SS. All hardware has corrosion protection of some sort. There are grades, which is the type of metal/processes used to make them , which translates to strength. A Chinese grade 5 will meet the strength requirements of U.S. grade 5. SS is no bang for big bucks. Except trim screws. Keep away from children. Other opinions may apply. Void where prohibited.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | As mentioned there are various grades of stainless. If ever you want it for trim etc I find the stainless bought at a marine supply store is best. | | |
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