The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Lower A-Arm Ubolt

Has anyone had success drilling out the frame holes for the new Lower A-Arm U-bolts on a 65 c10? According to LMC, the holes have to be drilled to accept the 9/16 u-bolts but the lower hole seem aweful close the the frame curve already. I'm afraid the nut will bind before tightening up...?

Thank you,
Tim

It is tight, but it will work, I've done it on many.

Good deal. I'm gonna give it a try tonite. I will be using a heavy duty drill w/VS and handle! Can't afford any broken bones! Thank you for the reply Sir!

Tim

It worked fine. I have to admit, when I installed the lower shaft I did not pay attention to the dimple. I was lucky to have installed both in the correct direction - toward the front of the arm!

Could you elaborate on the dimple comment? I am planning to rebuild the front end on my '65 and was hoping to learn from your experiences.

HRJ and Tim,
I take pics of everything. This may help. I remember stumbling across the "dimple and bump" while reading my FSM looking for torque specs. It must line up or it will not be flush. Make sure the shaft is about mid-way in the rotation before you line up the bump and dimple.

These pics are all from the PS assembly.

Bump 1

Bump 2

Dimple 1

Dimple 2

Bolted up it will sit flush in the saddle.

Lugnutz You Be Da Man! Thanks, that's information I can use.

So let me ask some more questions. This winter's to-do-list for my '65 C10 includes a front suspension and steering rebuild and a dual master cylinder install. The drum brakes and 6 lug hubs however are staying. Contemplating a front sway bar addition also.

Any suggestions regarding rebuilding the oem front end, such as Moog vs. ???? Go with parts from my local NAPA or buy a kit from our host? I really want to avoid foreign made parts.

The shafts have a dimple that needs to line up with the rivet/dow pin that comes thru the front-side lower a-arm saddle. The pin will set into the dimple. Be sure the dimple end of the shaft is toward the front side of the A-arm when replacing it.

Tim

Hey lookyie there.. Jay comes thru again! Great pics!

Thank you Jay.

Shot of the new 9/16" u-bolts installed after drilling the frame.

Installed

New vs Old size difference

Jay - I'm learning from your site as I go! BTW, do you have the torque specs handy on the bolts?

Thanks
Tim

Me? Offer suggestions? I'm totally new to this hobby! I buy my parts at Autozone, NAPA, Walmart, etc.


Tim and HRJ,
Page 15-2 in the 1963 FSM says
LCA Shaft U bolt
CP10 = 30 - 40 lb-ft

UCA Shaft
CP10 = 40 - 55 lb-ft

Lugnutz,

I can't wait to see the finished product! Wow! what a great job so far.

Well, I busted a lower ball joint boot tonite getting in a hurry. Any suggestions where to buy the boot only?

Thanks
Tim

No suggestions other than the local parts store or Rock Auto. I guess I'm not much help. Did the boot get pinched?

I was using a piece of PVC pipe to tap the boot ring down over the shoulder. The first one went well; the second pealed the rubber loose from the ring. I'll post any finding of a replacement boot. These are new joints; I would hate to buy another one!

Tim

Moog lower ball joint on Rock Auto is only $8.03 plus shipping. Autozone is $13 plus tax. At least it's not something like a fender! Yikes!

I purchased a new ball joint from Autozone and used the boot that come with it. Now I have all new ball joints!

Now it's time to collapse the front springs to get them into place.