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'Bolter
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I know this has been addressed before, but I'm not aware of the outcome. My axles have fairly significant pitting where the bearings and seals ride. Is it possible to turn it down enough to install bearings that have an inner race? I can't really remember exactly how much metal there was to play with, or which bearing exactly I would/could use if it is possible.

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Gas Pumper
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I just got done addressing this problem on a 55 1st series rear end. Excessive pitting on the seal area. The fix is called a Speedi-Sleeve. Its a very thin stainless sleeve that is pressed onto the shaft. Its so thin the standard seals work just fine. Its a good idea to do a lot of research on how to install these sleeves, or have a shop do it for you. Long story short, you put the axles in the freezer and the sleeves on a 100 watt light bulb, then use a long pipe of the right diameter to drive them on. The shop that did mine used a heat gun, and the pipe and it worked really well. There were multiple reasons I had a shop do it. One is, you don't want the sleeve halfway on the bearings and halfway off.. so you need to install those sleeves precisely where they belong. No chance of leaks after its done right. I am very happy with the solution.


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
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'Bolter
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From 1940-50 1/2 ton axles were turned down and an inner race was pressed on the axle. I will check but I think I have some of these races, if you do decide to turn your axles down.


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'Bolter
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what about a 53?

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'Bolter
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Wouldn't you turn off the hardened surface of the axle by turning them down? Or does the hardened surface extend down far enough?

John

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'Bolter
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yes the hardened surface would be removed, as well as being entirely too small. That is why I am asking if there is enough room to install a bearing that incorporates an inner race, I just don't know if anything exists for the '53, Dave says to '50(?) which isn't '53......hope Dave sits down to the board and starts having coffee soon. Maybe there is an undersize, (oversize?) bearing that can be used on a turned down axle? It wouldn't be a real difficult thing to have the area hardened again I couldn't imagine. Like I always say there is more than one way to skin a cat, none of which the cat cares for.

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The race Chev used is a hardened sleeve that the bearing runs on. To use these sleeves on a 1941-62 axle the axle would need to be turned down to except the sleeves.
I had a mistake in my earlier listing. These sleeves were only used from 1933-40. They can be used on 1941-62 axles if the bearing surface of the axle is turned down.
These show up on eBay, Group 5.855 Part #111122
Here is an ended eBay listing for example

Last edited by Pre '68 Dave; 09/22/2013 5:10 PM. Reason: added info

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'Bolter
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Is this not the part in the Chevs of the 40s catalog? Part # 11120 37-41


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'Bolter
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#111120 is for passenger car and is smaller, but the same idea.


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5
Renaissance Man
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Are there 'Axle Saver Bearings' available for these axles? I used them on a late 60's/early 70's 12 bolt. They are designed to move the bearing and seal to an unworn portion of the axle.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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My '48 1.5ton Loadmaster has pitting on the drivers side seal surface area. All of my attempts to find a "SPEEDI SLEEVE" solution have been unsuccessful. After reading different options; turning down the surface, off set seal, etc, I decided to try what some say works, and others say does not. Filling in the pits with JB Weld (or comparable) and sanding the surface smooth.
The surface is now uniformly smooth, I am planning on pulling the drum after 50 or so miles and inspecting the area for failure.
Pitting before
Pitting after JB Weld


Curt Warren
Salt Lake City
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'Bolter
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JB should work fine for a seal surface.


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'Bolter
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I swear any bearing house should be able to get you a speedi sleeve, they come in every size imaginable. We use them a lot at work, we just give them the dimensions of the shaft. The good part is for badly worn surfaces they recommend doing what you did with the jb weld.

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'Bolter
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Brokenhead I tried a couple different shops in town and they were all coming up with the same parts.
My shaft diameter is 3.1870 inches
( Shaft Diameter Range )
Part Nominal shaft diameter Minimun Inches Maximum Inches
99317 3.150 3.146 3.153
99328 3.228 3.225 3.231

It makes me feel better that You and Dave agree the JB Weld should do the trick!

Last edited by 801curt; 09/24/2013 12:00 PM.

Curt Warren
Salt Lake City
1948 1.5ton Loadmaster
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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If you look up the manufacturer 's website, you will find charts with many different sizes. I suspect parts houses don't look at those.


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'Bolter
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Does anyone have a good link to all of the sizes offered?
I have tried the Speedi-Sleeve mfg site, and it has given me the same options as this site.


Curt Warren
Salt Lake City
1948 1.5ton Loadmaster
http://photobucket.com/48loadmaster
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'Bolter
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I called the place we use at work, and they don't have it either, the fella was as surprised as I was...

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'Bolter
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I appreciate your effort Brokenhead!


Curt Warren
Salt Lake City
1948 1.5ton Loadmaster
http://photobucket.com/48loadmaster
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'Bolter
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maybe you could get it flame sprayed, I'm not sure how much it would cost, we do it a lot at work, but at work the government is paying for it, so I try to make sure we get the maximum life out of our equipment, (I pay taxes too.) We also have a ceramic coating put on certain shafts where the seal rides. It really makes for a nice finish, I wouldn't use the JB weld for the actual seal surface, I was only mentioning that the speedi-sleeve instructions recommend building up the area to be protected in much the same manner as you have done, prior to installing the sleeve.


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