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| | | Forums66 Topics128,163 Posts1,056,922 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 7 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 7 | 1946 Chevrolet 2 ton: The adjusting bolts for the rear brake cylinders are missing from the backing plates. Any suggestions on where I might find replacements? How they install? other options?
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 57 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 57 | i am not real sure what you need.. i thought those trucks had the Huck brakes which adjusted by the end caps on the wheel cyl. some replacements are available or you may find some used..but because of the work involved it would not be cost effective for me to get any off of my parts trucks to sell.. new would be best
but i may be wrong about the brakes on a 2ton..i havent worked on one of those in many years.. maybe someone else will chime in who has had more resent experience | | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 | If the '46 2 ton is the same as my '50 2 ton COE, there indeed are "bolts" on the backing plate. You adjust the two 5/8" hex heads that are slotted. The procedure is in the manual. On the inside of the backing plate the "bolt" is peened to a 1 1/2 inch disc that has eight "nubbins" that protrude out, acting as gear teeth, which engage the notched end caps of the wheel cylinder. Much nicer than sticking a screw driver through a notch. There is a spring between the backing plate and the disc to hold it in place.
I have a couple of repair kits (not for sale, I might need them) for these and I have seen one other set for sale on Ebay some time ago. The kit has group number 4.678 and part number 3705288. Again, I am assuming it would be the same for your '46.
Kent | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 7 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 7 | Exactly as you describe. Mine are missing are broke. Thanks for the part numbers; it gives me something to look for. Keep me in mind if you run across any. Thanks for the help. Doug | | | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 57 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 57 | i guess it has been too long since i have been into the brakes on a 2 ton ..i am glad lightholder spoke up... hope you can find the parts without having to tear into a used truck somewhere.. thats alot of work for such small parts..:)
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 7 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 7 | Used the part number to search ebay and found 2 repair kits. Crisis averted. Thanks again Doug | | | | | Joined: Nov 2013 Posts: 79 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2013 Posts: 79 | I know this is a very old post but I need advice on those adjusting bolts. Which way do you turn to tighten?
1952 Chevy 3100 1953 chevy 3100 Hot Rod 1946 Chevy Pickup
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,232 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,232 | It helps if you tell us if it's a GMC or Chevy and what size/series truck it is (you don't have a '46 listed in your signature)...we all want to be on the same page! Mike B  | | | | | Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 250 | As you're looking at the face of the studs, tighten clockwise. However, be very careful as the pinion can easily strip if the threaded cap on the end of the wheel cylinder is rusted and stuck. Use an open end wrench, not a box end or ratchet, and if it doesn't turn easily, don't push your luck. You'll have to pull the drums and free up the caps by tapping with a light punch and hammer. I've found that lightly lubricating the threads on the wheel cylinder adjusting caps is a good idea. | | |
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