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Joined: Jan 2007
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Wrench Fetcher
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Has anyone seen differnt sizes of angle on these? Has anyone used more than one at a time? I'm thinking since I've installed my 4" drop axle from Sid's that I would like to add more cast to my front end. Any ideas? Also, I want to take a leaf or two our of my stack. I've unloaded the front end and losened my U bolts. I expected the leaf stack to "fall apart", but they are tight to eachother, even when I get a chisel inbetween them. What gives? Thanks!


1953 Chevy 1/2-Ton 3100 5-Window
1937 Chevy 1/2-Ton
1970 Chevelle
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'Bolter
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You're best off to drive it before you add more caster to it. See how it drives first before you make and adjustments.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

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'Bolter
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Hy MainJet, leaf springs are held together by a long bolt through the center, and clips or bands of many different designs around the outside of the spring pack to hold everything inline. there is a lot of energy stored in a leaf spring, even when removed from a vehicle. If the center bolt is still in place the leaves are under compression, you should only disassemble a leaf spring when you have some way of controling the releasing of the tension of the spring leaves,hope that helps.

Last edited by 3B; 09/16/2013 10:21 PM. Reason: missing letter
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks 46gmcpu. I have about 750 miles on it since the change. The front end is responding more harshly than it did when I had the stock axle. This is why I'm looking to make an adjustment.


1953 Chevy 1/2-Ton 3100 5-Window
1937 Chevy 1/2-Ton
1970 Chevelle
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,596
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'Bolter
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In that case you should be able to get shims with more angle in them or stack them. When you say it responds more harshly what is it doing? More bump steer?


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
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Wrench Fetcher
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There IS more bump steer, but also It just doesn't feel like the suspension moves upward when I hit a small, square bump (like a step). A good expample is a Manhole cover. When I hit a big expansion joint where an over pass joins the street, I feel the suspension go through the stroke. That bump is shaped more like a "V."


1953 Chevy 1/2-Ton 3100 5-Window
1937 Chevy 1/2-Ton
1970 Chevelle
Joined: May 2006
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'Bolter
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Do not stack the caster shims!!!! They are not designed to work that way. If you need more caster, replace the shims with larger ones that have the amount of extra caster angle you're after.


Bill Burmeister
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Roger That, Longbox55. I just learned that I can get different sizes from Napa. The first step will be to see what my current set is. Does everyon agree that by lowering my front end I've decreased the caster? I suppose the caster is relative to the frame though (or is it relative to the ground?). I'm thinking the angle facing the bump in the street is different and that is what I'm feeling.


1953 Chevy 1/2-Ton 3100 5-Window
1937 Chevy 1/2-Ton
1970 Chevelle
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,596
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'Bolter
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The caster will affect bump steer. For the suspension to feel rougher sounds more like decreased suspension travel. Is your suspension bottoming out at the bottom of the stroke?

If you add caster it will help the bump steer, but won't help your suspension travel. Your caster angle may have changed a bit. Experiment and see what works best.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
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Wrench Fetcher
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Definitely not bottoming out. With the lowered axle, the travel is the same as the OEM. Axle is still below the original spring pack. There is also no evidence of hitting the frame. I am going to try some larger caster shims and go from there. Thanks!


1953 Chevy 1/2-Ton 3100 5-Window
1937 Chevy 1/2-Ton
1970 Chevelle
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,596
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'Bolter
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Are the tires rubbing anywhere though, or maybe some other parts? What you describe in the change in ride shouldn't occur due to alignment.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket

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