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#970830 09/10/2013 10:27 PM
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
A
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
It's going to start getting cold/cooler soon and I'm really going to start working on the 65.One of the things I hate most about my truck is how high it sits up so you guessed it im going to lower it.1st thing 1st is I have to lose the 275s in the back to lower it then find some steelies rally rims.I'm not sure what size I need yet but im sure a normal tire size should fix and let me lower it. Here's my issue on lowering it. Im doing this on a budge and I only want to buy one set of coils and spindles.I am deff going to get the front subframe/cradle/The front suspension or what ever its called from the square body chevy truck 73-?? so ill have disk breaks in front and I'll be doing the rear end from a 71-72 so ill have 5 lugs front and back.Now im going to lower it because like I said I hate how it sits/looks/body roll on it. I'll be using drop spindles and lowering coils when the FUNDS become available until then I still have to drive this truck.my question is if I order the drop spindles and lowering coils now will they fit when I do the disk breaks and the rear end from the 71-72 when I do it? Because im not going to buy 2 sets of coils and spindles if they wont fit. if they dont fit I'm going to cut my coils until I get the other parts because im not really worried about the ride its almost 50 years old anyways so it's not like im going to take it a 100 miles around curves or anything.sure it will be bouncy by who cares its going to look mean.I'm cut coils on a few cars now so I have it covered.I even cut my eibach coils which are already lowering springs because they wasn't low enough for me.if you can't tell im a mustang guy lol I still have one and have had one since I could drive.here's how they looked when I cut the coils and they drove fine.I want the truck to sit down over the rim and tire like the pic of my mustang (the Foxbody) it had eibachs prosport coils which I cut a coil off them and it looked badass.I know I can't get it that low but I want it as close to it as I can.I could get a deck of cards under the front bumper standing straight up.I want it LOW
[IMG]http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh105/jwe3689/IMG_108083371458654.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh105/jwe3689/IMG_20110130_152737.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh105/jwe3689/IMG_107813355955724.jpg[/IMG]


Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 568
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
H Offline
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 568
What's your budget? $1000 or less? I would hit early classic enterprises. Drop kits around $800.00 but at least it's tried and true. I used them on my 64 and 65. Cheaps not good and goods not cheap. They have stance photos on the site and a client gallery. They're nice people also.


I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 568
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 568
The kit offered by ece allows you to use your existing tie rods and other suspension components. It's the best bang for the buck I think. They sell brake kits as well. I have the 4-6 drop on my 65. With the 18" rear wheel it tucks nicely, the front 17" wheel has 1.5" from top of tire to fender, the tire size is 255/45. I don't bottom out and can still turn without eating sidewalls up. The only thing that may be an issue is the header flanges. I have to get into some driveways at an angle. The kit uses the new KYB gas shocks. 2.5 drop spindle and 1.5 spring drops the front. A coil designed to drop 6" does the rear. I've hauled a yard of 3/4" gravel in my truck before and it didn't bottom out.


I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
A
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
Can you post a link to the kit you bought sir?
I love everything about this truck from how it sits to how the paint is.I want to get my truck to look like it or as close to it as I can.but I want the ccw or bbs rims.see how the rims go up in the fenders well that's how I want mine but I dont want the truck laying on the ground.
[IMG]http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh105/jwe3689/IMG_20130911_115503.jpg[/IMG]

Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 568
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 568
I think that truck is bagged. How would you drive with the wheels half covered?
I can't post a link but the site is earlyclassicenterprises.com
They have air stuff as well

Last edited by Hollow65; 09/11/2013 12:42 PM.

I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
A
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 59
I figure the wheels will tuck up in the fenders.looks like they are enough room to me just half the tire

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
G
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
My tires hit the fender wells when the bags are empty, 2' drop spindils. comes up nicely with air. MY front crossmember is 2 inches off the pavement. The parts were under 1K if you shop around for everything. drop spindils ball joints and more

Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 568
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
H Offline
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 568
With the ece kit you keep original ball joints and tierods. My front sits 4" lower and my cross member lets me get a floor jack under it.


I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
A little tip that will save you a few $$$; On the rear axle, you do not need to swap the entire housing to get 5 lug, you can simply swap the axle shafts and drums out. Not only will it be cheaper, but it will save you a whole bunch of downtime of taking the entire housing out. To make it even cheaper, get a good set of axles from a '71-87 C10, have them shortened and regrooved at the local machine shop, I believe the difference is about 3/4". The splines are the same, as are the brakes, so all you would need otherwise are the later 11" 5 lug drums.


Bill Burmeister

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