The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Keyswitch question - Now with Chewy Update Center!

This is a problem that has been there all along on the truck, but has become more of a nuissance lately.

When you insert the key into the ignition keyswitch, sometimes it does not turn. It acts like the key is bad (or wrong).

If I remove the key and give the face of the switch 5-6 love taps with my 22oz carpenter's hammer, it will allow the key to turn.

I've tried each of my 3 keys. They all do it.

Am I right in thinking that there's something sticking in there? What can I do to fix this?This is really getting old, and any assistance would be appreciated.

prolly has some worn pins that are getting into a bad position - might be able to get a locksmith to fix'er up, or just get a replacement lock cylinder if available

Bill

Try some lock graphite from the hardware store.

lock smith...doc

lock smith.........I used some of that powdered graphite and my lock smith,, said not to use that,,anyway he got me all fixed up on mine...

One more voice added to the chorus, locksmith.

If you dont wake up...........still a good day

Use a paperclip mand your key to remove the cyl. clean up every thing with wd40, examine for damage and good luck.

Brendan:

Does either the key or the lock have a 4 diget number? If so have a locksmith cut you a new key

The only problem with wd-40 is it will attract dirt and cause you more problems down the road, I agree with the other guys about the locksmith, it is easy to remove the lock and take it to a locksmith, thay can fix the problem and make you a new key at the same time if needed.

Ed

Chester & Ed: I won't lie and say that shooting WD-40 in there hadn't crossed my mind... I pretty much crossed it off my list, though, mainly because my key would get all oily, which would, in turn, make my pants all dirty.

Kip: The keys don't have numbers. The two new ones were made off of the old one -- which is also a copy. I haven't pulled the cylinder yet to see.

So... I guess that it's off to Hampel's with me... Do I pull the whole assembly, or can I just pull the lock cylinder and take that in?

Thanks for the advice, everyone! It is appreciated!

I would pull the whole assembly since it is not that hard to pull, that way if there is any other issues it is all together and can be fixed at the same time

To quote a song by the Fabulous Thunderbirds..."why get up?"

Okay. Thanks.

I'll let you know the level of disbelief on the guys' faces when I walk in and smack that puppy down on the counter.

the look might be more than disbelief if the counter ya smack it on is glass! but if the shop has been around more than a few years, they won't blink, lock cylinders haven't changed much

Bill

I'll be gentle.

Brendan what was the outcome with regards to your visit to the locksmith. I'm curious

NO GRAPHITE!!! WD40 is the ticket. if that don't fix it take it to the lock smith.

Best bet would be to order a new key/guts set from one of the repop houses. I forget which catalog had it for like 12 bucks...Much cheaper than a locksmith and you get a new cylinder and key to boot!
Good luck... Dan

a couple sprays of GRAPHITE, and make sure every thing else isnt binding,or crossed up and your lock will be working fine.......reeeeel simple.
its not brain surgery!

Okay. I figured that I'd update this thread.

So, among the various other things that I did today, I took the cylinder from my keyswitch into Hampel\'s to have it looked at.

I showed Al the sticking pin, and he did get it to work better by spraying some Graphite in there, but it didn't fix things 100%. They're going to put new springs and pins in.

It might be done tomorrow, but it'll probably be done on monday.

Hay Brendan, can this guy make a key to the old number on the inside of my door handle?? Better yet can he redo my door lock cylinder so the key matches one of the two I already have for the ignition and glove box. Sure would be nice to end up with two keys and not 3. Can's seem to find anyone down here willing to try.

If anyone can do it, the guys in Hampel's can. They've even still got the code books and blanks from 60 years ago. (They've been around since 1919.)

Al is probably who will end up doing the work. He's the "Antique Automotive" specialist.

They're on Randolph across the street from Sleder's.

That will make it tough to find !! …….. I do plan to be up there Friday through Monday.

For those “not from around here” Sleders is the oldest continuously operating bar in Michigan, dates back to some time in the Middle Ages, before Ohio was even a state.

I know it'll be tough to find, but I have faith in you!

Funnily enough, for us locals when we give out directions to someone's house in slabtown, we usually always start with, "Go to Sleder's."

It opened in 1066, same as the Norman Invasion of England.

Just checked my voicemail. Jeff called me this morning at 10:21 (I missed closing time by about 12 hours!) telling me that my lock was ready.

It took less time than I thought it was going to.

Brendan,

I had no idea Norman did that to England. He probably got hammered at Sleder's and took it out on the frogs! What say you sir?

Sir-Stuart of Saxony

graphite only in a lock.

oils will gum them up as mentioned above
maybe time for a new key switch if it has worn tumblers ...

Well,

I got my keyswitch back from hampels today, and it works like a champ. Two thumbs up from moi.

Stuart:

I say: Your mother was a hamster and your father smelled of elderberries!

Jim:

They can rebuild it. Make it better, faster, stronger. They have the technology.

good job