The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 46 2 ton 261 engine swap questions

I have put my 261 into my 2 ton 46.
I have two questions

1) what do I do with the waterpump
2) how should I run my headers

Pictures are included to describe things.
https://plus.google.com/photos/1182...15781184085252193?authkey=CIL2zrbSr9OSOA

1) I purchased a short waterpump from patricks, but its a lot lower than original. I wasnt concerned about the fan shroud, but the fan hits the lower radiator hose. I was hoping to not move the radiator. I also was hoping to not run an electric fan. Should I have gone the route of an adapter plate and used my original waterpump?

2) the path for the exhaust out of my headers seems to conflict with the oil filter lines. I was going to just remove the secondary oil filter and run the exhaust behind the steering box. Is this the standard location? anybody have a pic of a 2 ton with fenton headers I can see?

Best Regards

Jay

Jay,

1. The adapter plate and a 1946-style water pump would be fine.

2. What year 261?
What is a "secondary" oil filter; and,
what is (where is) the "primary" oil filter?

the engine is a 1955 and the plug is out (flush with the block).
I wont have an oil filter.

I added a picture of the adapter plate I have.

Jay,

" . . . I was going to just remove the secondary oil filter . . . "

What is a "secondary" oil filter; and,
what is (where is) the "primary" oil filter?


"the engine is a 1955 and the plug is out (flush with the block).
I wont have an oil filter."

What plug?

picture added to album with an arrow pointing to the plug.

You may run that engine without an oil filter. Put a bolt/plug in the forward hole. Use the rear hole for the oil pressure gauge line.

If you want an oil filter with dual exhaust headers, you do have to worry about the rubber oil filter lines touching the headers/pipes.

I have used two techniques:
- use a metal "stand-off pipe" to come out from the block to clear the hot parts. Then run the oil lines from the pipe to a convenient location for a filter.
- use flexible metal (copper? or nickle/copper) tubing from the block to the oil filter (or to a short hose to the oil filter.
-- Brass "transition" adapters are available for most sizes of pipes/hoses.

My 54/55 COE (GMC) has the by-pass oil filter attached to the firewall, high on the passenger side. Basically, metal tubing runs from the block to a rubber hose/line to the oil filter.

I installed "Fentons",on my T.F. '55 6500. I thought I had a video of the set-up and sound,but it must've got deleted. Engine is S.C.O.,so doesn't have an oil filter. Noticeable increase in performance and fuel economy with header installation. AND the sound is SWEET!!

What is "S.C.O."?

Thanks,

Seems like running a 90 degree fitting on the front line to hug the block would work along with bringing the exhaust forward of the steering box?

I plan to do this swap with my 46 2-ton this winter....Or a little bigger inline 6 like a 302 or a 503! Haven't made up my mind yet.

The 302 would be no problem. The oil filter is not mounted and plumbed on the manifold side of the engine.

Hey Randy
yeah, I was thinking of running the front exhaust forward of the steering box. But wanted to ask the gurus. I have a set of porter mufflers waiting to be welded.

here is what I learned on my swap. keep the old engine near by. You are going to need a lot of parts from it (wink).

Rebuilding the steering box was a pain. there was just a pile of square bearings at the bottom of the box. Removing the races for the bearings was difficult, I had to ship it out to get them removed. Finding the correct bearings also took some time.

S.C.O. stands for "self-cleaning/changing" oil,I think. I change my oil every 1,000 miles,though. Would like to up-grade to full-flow filter,but I'm not fixin' what ain't broke.

S.C.O. stands for "self-cleaning/changing" oil,I think. I change my oil every 1,000 miles,though. Would like to up-grade to full-flow filter,but I'm not fixin' what ain't broke.