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#96599 08/06/2006 7:32 AM | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 18 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 18 | I have read all that is required for a 12V conversion in a 49 is to reduce voltage to fuel gauge and replace lamps. How do the starter motor and heater blower handle higher voltage?
" the first rule of the intelligent tinkerer is to save all the parts"
aldo leopold
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#96600 08/06/2006 2:32 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 213 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2003 Posts: 213 | Not real well on the heater. They are lighter than the starter and will spin faster and cook. The good news is 12 volt bolt in replacements are easy to get, and not horribly expensive. Jim Carter in Kansas City has a special of 10% off thru some time this month. Contact me off line at [email protected] and I'll help you with that. I'll be ordering, so we could go together if needed. The starter spins very quick and if all is well elsewhere, will start you up fast. Others say the starter will be fine. I suspect eventually you would want to have it re-would in 12 volt, but I wouldn't rush. All the bulbs need to become 12 volt. The fuel gauge will need a reducer, search for the "Runtz" model. The former Chevy Duty sells them, Carter may too. 12 volts on a fuel gauge is terminal. Be ready to buy a new gauge. That's about all I can come up with off the top of my head... Good Luck! Jake | | |
#96601 08/06/2006 2:54 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | You will need a 12 volt gen. & regulator. The starter will work better & last longer than it will on 6 volts.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
#96602 08/07/2006 8:15 AM | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 18 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 18 | I am using the 12V generator/regulator from the 235. I'll disconnect heater motor for now, as I don't have the core plumbed to the waterpump anyway. Putting in 12V bulbs. Is the 'runtz' similiar to a voltage regulator IC like the 7809A. Any ideas on the current draw for the fuel gauge?
" the first rule of the intelligent tinkerer is to save all the parts"
aldo leopold
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#96603 08/08/2006 4:29 AM | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | I've been running a 6 volt fan motor at 12 volts for a couple years. Its running too fast and makes too much noise, but otherwise I don't think it's been a problem. I keep planning to replace it...
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | |
#96604 08/10/2006 4:53 PM | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 324 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 324 | some old heater switches were adjustible reostates (sp?) a heavy resistor w/ heat sink would work for the heater motor.
"It ain't a truck if you can't hose out the cab."
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#96605 08/10/2006 7:10 PM | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 | dont forget to change the coil........either with one with a built in ballast resistor or add an external one. | | |
#96606 08/23/2006 3:52 PM | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 | I have an coiled resistor upriver of my heater switch. Don't remember where I got it but it has worked just fine for over 5 years now.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
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#96607 08/23/2006 10:11 PM | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 4 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 4 | This is in reply (again) on the 6 to 12 v. conversion. I have an altenator and 12 v. coil, and I know I need to add a Runtz res. for the gas gauge. My car seems to run fine, so what is the reason for needing a ballast resistor on the coil. | | |
#96608 08/29/2006 1:58 PM | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 161 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 161 | i bought inline resistors from ACT in Texas to put in to run my 6v heator with 12 volts..i have not installed it yet so I cant give you a better idea but they are designed for that and are pretty cheap. http://www.americanclassic.com/asp/...&iyear=1946&ytype=to&exyear= scroll down and you will see the voltage reducers. The heavy gauge for heaters are only $7.50 and the ones with heatsink are only $15.00. Beats changing out a lot of stuff if you have a good heater.
1946 Chevy Pickip
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#96609 08/29/2006 2:41 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | car54,
Some type of voltage reducer is required before the points to drop the voltage to approximately 9 volts when the truck is RUNNING. This reduced voltage is sufficient to power the ignition system WITHOUT burning up the points.
This feat is accomplished with a resistor before the primary side of the coil, or with a coil containing a internal resistance.
With a external, or ballast resistor, the system is wired to bypass this device when in the START mode, thereby supplying FULL voltage to the coil to overcome any draw created by a cranking starter.
This only pertains to a 12 volt system. Clear as mud to me!
Stuart | | |
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