The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed Wood for 1/2 ton bed

Just Google IPE and you will find out. It is very commonly used in the Metro D.C. area and other places on the East Coast that I have seen.

Here is a typical link about IPE

http://ironwoods.com/products/our-species/ipe/

IPE is being used for boardwalk replacement in many NJ shore resorts, especially after the Sandy hurricane. As stated, it does hold up very well to all kinds of weather.

IPE is a Brazilian walnut - a very hardwood. I have enough left over from my deck to put in my 46, maybe this winter if I'm ambitious.

So...IPE is an imported walnut species, doesn't that make
it a very expensive wood?????
That is, compared to the SYP that was used originally in
the truck beds.
DG

Yes, Denny, it is. At HD it's about $3.50/sq ft, but I've seen it below $3. It's a cost/benefit issue for sure for small board foot purchasers.

Denny, the 'walnut' part is a common name, it's not related at all to any species of 'walnut' - but, yes very expensive compared to any softwood

Bill

You guys are always coming up with something helpful. Thanks for the tip. I will look into that for the several projects I have going.

I think I'll wait to order any Ipe until I hear about how much fun it is to router the grooves for the bed strips.

Hardwood like IPE actually works well. Small bites.Clean cuts...

For your consideration -
Clear finishes break down when they crack. The expansion of the wood along with the elasticity of the finish are key to preventing cracks, along with UV resistance.
Compare Wood
This link gives a table of strenght and durability of various woods. IPE is the most durable, readily available and (KEY PT) its stability is ranked third.
US Coating
This link is for a new coating from USC that is flexible; cross-linking to the wood.
Anchorseal
This link is for USC Anchorseal that is applied to the end cuts as soon as the cut is made. The end cut is the most vulnerable entrance for moisture.
House of Hardwood
This mill is located in Los Angeles. I got a $500 quote last year for custom milling 5/4 IPE, grade 1, kiln dried for the widths/lenghts for a 1956 short bed stepside, using the profile found on the MAR-L site with all corners radiused 1/16" (the coating will adhere better to a radius than a sharp edge, reducing cracking).

I went ahead and fabricated some Ipe bed wood. It will be many months before I need to install, but no time like the present...

Remember, if left unfinished, the color all evens out to a light gray. I plan to leave unfinished.

Ipe bed wood

What about Doug fir? I live in the N.W. where it is plentiful. We have a small mill where we live so it is quite sustainable. I have some side rails on my 82 Chev truck for a few years now and it looks better as it ages. When I'm ready I'll have it milled with a semi rough surface and paint the bottom and edges black and probably leave the top surface unfinished.

Doug Fir would be beautiful but too soft for my purposes, which might have some cargo every now and then. IPE is like a rock. I just ordered some for my bed. Costs less than $400 and I will mill the proper profiles. I plan to seal it with Cabots Austrailian Timber Oil (ATO), which is a penetrating oil. DavidF's bed will also look great unfinished, but I personally like the soft glow that ATO brings out in IPE. I'm getting unpolished stainless Bed Strips & bolts from Mar-K.

That should really look good. I used Sikkens on our siding and deck and very happy with the results. It is a penetrating oil also. I might use it when I get around to the bed. Is your truck the same one thats in the old photo? Steve

The red truck is a photo of my grandfather driving his truck when he owned a hardware store; my older brother and sister are in the back. Circa 1952. I tried to find his original one and stumbled onto the one I purchased, which is the teal one. Great truck. I still want to find my grandfather's truck but fear it is long gone.

I milled all my IPE for the bed today - same as DavidF. For those planning on doing this themselves, start with an edge cut with a table saw and then use a 1/4" or 3/16" straight shank router bit for the deeper section. Mine came out great.

Straight shank router bit set-up

Milled bed wood ready for finishing

Just an update for anyone watching this thread. I sealed my IPE with Messmers UV oil treatment for hardwood. Looks great and should last well as the truck is kept in a garage.

Oiled and wiped IPE - not dry yet

Messmer's UV Hardwood Finish

Just curious. Did you guys cut the step down dado for rib edge
or just square cut the rib slot?

I'm using Mar-K plan with the cut step down, but wondered if you felt it necessary?

Step down dado helps recess the edge of the bedstrips, making them sit lower in the bed. Also holds bed planks from moving around too much.

Yes, got that, but just wondering if those guys(or others) actually did that as per this tech page.

http://www.mar-k.com/Catalog/PDF/Instructions/Bed_Wood_Dimensions.pdf

Yes - I did the step down per the detail. I made the deeper slot 1/4" vs. the 3/16" specified but the other dimensions are per that tech page.

Ritchie, have a picture of your bedwood once it dried? I love the color of it (at least when its wet), how does it compare dry?

I'll send another photo. It is pretty much the same color but not shiny. It has a deep mahogany like color. I think it will look great when installed. I got the unpolished bed strips so I am hoping the combination of the satin finished IPE and the bed strips will look great together.

I followed the Tech page as well and included the "step down". I made all cuts with a table saw, including the "step down".

i used POPLAR. planed down to 7/8 thick. cut rabbets on edge`s, you can get measurements of mar-kay site. used poplar because it`s a hardwood, and paints very nice. the 7/8 fits perfect after rabbet on side angles.

Here is the IPE going in. I had to assemble it on the truck rather than as a separate assembly because my bed sides have some issues that I will address with the outer two pieces.

Center IPE boards

IPE at rear cross sill

Although not original, it is beautiful

Ritchie - IPE is one of my very favorite woods. Never even thought of putting it in the bed. What coating do you plan on using?

I coated it with Messmer's Oil, which we use a lot locally here. I also tried Cabot's Australian Timer Oil but like the look of Messmer's better.

Excellent. Thanks

I finished my (unfinished) Ipe bed wood installation. You can see the results here. Should weather to a nice Nantucket gray.

Here's my wood in the staining process. Red Oak, with 'honey' stain from minwax, and it'll all get covered with spar.

bed wood

Looks great - I finished mine with Messmers's as noted previously but do love the natural weathering without a finish. Let's compare the bed wood at the end of the summer. Both versions will look great.