The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Homemade Trans Mount?

Digging through the boxes that my truck came in, i found what appears to be the trans mount. All the rubber was melted out, leaving two plates and some goo. I am having trouble finding this part at vendors, the one i found doesn't look as sturdy as original (not sure it would even fit). So, here's the question: why can't i cut a piece of urethane and put it into the old metal pieces? and, how thick should the urethane be? Do you all think i would be in danger of tearing something up doing this? Thanks for any help!

You didn't say what year your truck is, but I rebuilt the mount on my 46 with no problems as yet. I removed the rivits and used a couple pieces of sidewall from an old tire for the rubber spacers, and bolted it back together. Mine had bushings between the plates be sure to reuse these if you have them.

Good Luck
George

sorry, brain freeze...'51 3100 thanks for the reply!

I am dealing with the same problem right now on my '51 1/2T. See the attached pictures to see if we are talking about the same thing.

I will measure the clearance between the plates tonight and post tomorrow. The replacement rubbers shown are from Chevy Duty. They appear to be too thick (by about double). I guess they will put the mount too high for the mounting holes on the back end of the transmission. Since there were no instructions and the guy behind the counter didn't have a clue I guess you are to cut the rivets off and replace with bolts.

The original mount appears to have large holes in the plate that had rubber bushings.

[img]http://www.whcinc.com/images/TransMt5.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.whcinc.com/images/TransMt2.JPG[/img]

Yes Paul, that's the same mount and same problem i have. The replacement rubbers Chevy Duty sold you are just pieces of conveyor belt cut & punched. Your pic shows a 3 ply carcass with a bottom cover and a thicker top cover. This belt comes in all thicknesses, & I've got access to all kinds of it. If you need another thinner piece, let me know & I'll send you a piece (just about any thickness you want) you can cut with a utility knife & drill holes in. I didn't realize that was the material to use for this. I figure you can use bolts ok if they don't interfere with anything. I was thinking of grinding the rivets out & then welding them back up if i can keep from melting the rubber during welding. Maybe some other bolter out there has done this?

Why couldn't you just cut slots in the rubber and force it over the rivets instead of drilling them out and using bolts?

I don't know 4, wouldn't the bouncing and vibration cause them to work out and fall off without the bolts ? Heck, i don't know/ I'm just guessing here

Patricks and Chevs of the 40,s carry this
mount with the rivits like the original.
Get ready to open your wallet is a little
pricey but very nice mount.
Mike

I meant to include that you do it in such a way that you keyhole the holes, so it would be hard for it to slide out while bolted in place.

rebuilt mine last year, ground off the rivits and installed the conveyor belt pieces from chevy duty. when i installed the mount under the transmission the heads of the bolts were too thick and interfered with the transmission (i think) after grinding them down to install the mount, things went together very smoothly.

I measured the distance between the two plates held by rivets; it is 0.670". When you subtract the flat metal plate in the middle (0.155) you end up with 0.258" to put rubber into (.515/2). The Chevy Duty rubber is nearly 1/2" thick for each piece and you won't be compressing these things very much.

Looks to me like the Chevy Duty pieces will put the mount at least 1/4" higher than the original. Maybe thats why you had to grind bolts to get your's to fit?

I'd like to find this belting material 0.250-0.375". I need to blast the thing and do a trial fit to see how much clearance I really need. Will be the weekend before I'll get to it.

PRW

I can probably send you a square foot or so of something close to your needs...let me know what thickness is best for you - Jim Smith - [email protected]

I used the Chevy Duty Repo mount and had to add .375 in. neoprene shims under to bring it up to attach to the Tranny Tail. I have all new motor mounts for this 1960 235 engine using the original bell housing from the former 216 engine. The drive shaft angle looks okay, so I am hoping that the extra rubber adds to the vibration isolation.

1953 Chevrolet 1/2 ton semi-deluxe

Got the mount apart last night. Here's what's really in there.

The rivets are about the same diameter as a 5/16" bolt and go down thru a spacer which is 1/2" OD and 0.675" long. It appears that this spacer sets the minimum distance between the plates when the rivets are whacked down. The hole in the plate that the spacer goes thru is about 7/8". The spacer had rubber around it when new.

I did a test assembly of the Chevy Duty replacement rubbers and they are too thick (2x0.410"). This puts the mount about 1/4" too high to align with the bolt holes of the torque tube ball clamp. It also has the 5/16" bolts hitting the bottom of the transmission case (note that the heads of the rivets are pretty thin). Not a very well thought out piece by Chevy Duty and I plan to write them about it.

Using flat rubber will certainly work but doesn't prevent movement from side to side like the original. This would be limited to how hard you clamped the assembly together to keep the rubber from slipping. Probably good enough....until you get some trans oil on it. But on the other hand there are probably many driving around without the mount. PRW
[img]http://www.whcinc.com/images/Trans001.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.whcinc.com/images/Trans003.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.whcinc.com/images/Trans005.JPG[/img]