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Stovebolters -

installed engine after a complete rebuild (runs great!) have now have a dying/dead battery issue.
Prior to pulling the engine, no electrical issues. The battery & generator sat in the basement for about 3 months. After re-assembly the engine turned over fast and started right up. Gradually the starter was turning slower and slower as I continued to start and drive while breaking in the new motor. Evenually, the battery was dead. Ammeter was sitting in the middle. While going over my installation procedures, I recall I did not poloriaze the generator.
Went back and did so. Charged the battery, and she fired right up. Ammeter almost pegged on the charge side. However, still had the same issue, battery goes dead.
Had generator bench tested, no issue, put in new regulator, no change. Did the pull the positive cable off the battery, engine dies.
Appreciate any suggestions to track down the issue.

Thanks
JWC

1. If ammeter shows charging you don't have a generator or regulator problem as long as it comes to neutral after a bit.

2. Engine should not stop when you disconnect the battery, or do you have some kind of electronic ignition?

3. I guessing with key and lights off when you connect and disconnect battery you get a spark? If yes, simple way to troubleshoot is disconnect one thing at a time and see if you still get battery connector spark that was not the prob, reconnect and try something else. You say you only changes the engine, so work around that area. Sure you didn't change any ign wiring?

Like to hear your feedback and provide more ideas.
Mike

you might just have a dead cell in the battery, that little deal can cause you a big head ache till you find it..not saying but...

Mike

Thanks for the suggestions. Will begin the process to locate the issue. Don't have an electronic ignition. And yes get a spark with ignition/lights off.
Didn't change any wiring. Just took off the accessory items mounted on the engine. Starter, generator, coil, etc.
Will keep you posted. Am sure once discovered it will be something simple & obvious.

Thanks
joe

may have the coil/starter circuit wired so the coil is hot all the time key on or off, which could cause current flow anytime the engine happens to stop with the points closed

Bill

And what kills the engine in a situation like that?

generator connected in the wrong place? so maybe that's the/another misplaced wire, battery drained by the gen/reg circuit

Bill

to find the current draw. install a test light between the unhooked neg battery cable and the neg battery post. Disconnect loads/accessories until the test light goes out. Sometimes more than one load is draining the battery. If test light does not burn replace battery.

and if you have a drain and can't find it install a cut off switch..

Thanks to all for the diagnostic input. Will tackle the issue this weekend and report back!

Being a D.C. communter has stovebolt disadvantages!

Stovebolters -

Talked with the local shop that did the initial generator work. They recommended to first run a ground wire from the regulator to the firewall. The regulator I replaced did not have a ground wire.
Started truck with some throttle pulled. When I pulled battery cable, truck still ran, until I got to about 1/4 inch from pushing throttle cable all the way in, then truck stops.
A re-check of idle speed perhaps and trying to diagnose a power draw as Mike suggested will solve the issue.

Joe

disconnect the positive side of the battery and insert an ammeter in series between it and the battery cable. If you have a sneak current flowing the meter will read it. Then one by one disconnect eletrical devices and look to see if the ammeter shows the current draw stop after you disconnect it. The culprit will show itself. Curious, do you have a stomp starter with the wire terminal off of the side of the starter contacts that you can feed to the coil for direct battery feed while cranking? I've seen those terminals spin while being tightened and internally you might be making contact to the coil at all times right from the battery.

The voltage regulator box was not grounded through its case/box/cover. These three mounting screws and insulators assured that it was not grounded.

Stovebolters

With key off, no draw at the battery, thus assume there is no parasitic discharge.

At driving rpm/fast idle, charging rate is 6.8, truck continues to run if battery cable is pulled

At idle, charging rate drops to 6.3, and truck will die if battery cable pulled.

Fan belt is adjusted to 1/2

Generator just weak? Or battery needs charging/driving time?

Thanks
Joe

probably regulator needs adjusting

Bill

just replace it, can't cost you much...

I just put in a brand new regulator. Adjustment might be first try, and replacement follow on solution

my bad, I read it but forgot it.. maybe it is bad...
I got a bad alt once so you never know