The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk My "New" 1939 1/2 Ton

The truck I've mentioned in another thread or two has finally arrived.

It may not look like much, but... Yeah okay, it needs some work. But here's the gist.

It's pretty much just as I expected it. It's pretty rough around the edges, and I'm glad I'm planning on just tooling around in it for a while because it will be a real project to restore. But, again, it's sort of just what I wanted and I REALLY dig it. It's surprisingly complete and a lot of what's there is working, little things like the windows rolling up and down.

The rear end is frozen (probably locked brakes). The steering works good, the clutch works, the transmission shifts like it was brand new (it's kind of hilarious, actually). The worst thing I discovered is that the engine seems frozen, though. I didn't bust out any tools as I had to get moving shortly after it arrived, but a good tug on the belt seemed to do nothing. You can spin the fan easy but it's just hooked up to the water pump from the look of it. Maybe the crank will spin with some persuasion after all, but I'm not hopeful. It was advertised as having a free engine so I'm not too thrilled, needless to say. More on that soon.

One really neat thing is that it has this cool old heater. I don't know if it was a dealer accessory or what, but it's marked Chevrolet Deluxe on it. Anyone shine some light on it?

It obviously needs a complete bed floor. The bed is just sitting there at the moment.

Engine

Rear

Rear chassis

Front left

Front right

Heater

Dash



Dan

That is the correct heater for a 39. I have the same one in my 39. Looks like most of the pieces are there. Great truck to work on.

Wow, no kidding. I figured these trucks would have had no heaters at all. Okay, cool.

Got a lead on a nice running engine with bell housing and clutch for $300. Good deal?

Dan

I like it.

Dan, nice project. It can be very frustration but also very very satisfying. We're here to help.
I might add that with todays prices for body work it may be a good idea to look at Mar-K bed kits that come with all the stuff to have a new bed. Just a thought.

Good luck. Keep the pics coming.

Very cool!

CONGRATS!

I really like it.

I've heard of the Mar-K bed floors, that's definitely on the wish list. Doesn't seem like you can beat their prices or quality.

Thanks, everyone!

Dan

Hi Dan,

You might try removing the sparkplugs on the engine and adding some Blaster or other rust penitrating oil in the cylinders and allow it to sit for a bit and see if it loosens up any.

John

Youngstown, your not to far away from Amish country then. You could always get some boards over at one of the saw mills, if you have a router and a table saw and make up your own bed boards.
John

Haha, I've thought of that. I could do it, I have the tools, but time is money for me so I'll probably be ahead buying the stuff already made.

Thanks for all the support. I'll have to pick your brains about what all the controls are on the dash soon!

So does $300 for a running engine sound reasonable? $250, actually, if I don't want the bellhousing and things.

Dan

yes, if it really is 'running', $250-300 is cheap

Bill

Thanks. I may not need it, though. It turns out the engine is free after all! There is one problem, though. There is one stuck valve. It is the 4th one from the front. The piston does not hit it, thankfully, but it's obviously still a problem. I'm sure it's just stuck in whatever position it had been sitting in. Any trick to getting it to hopefully pop loose? I drenched it in Blaster but I doubt that alone will make it loosen. Is heating it with a torch a good idea? It's under constant pressure from its spring so I was hoping it might just pop up when it's ready. Or, since it's apparently not all the way down (wouldn't the piston hit it if it was?) maybe I can tap on the end some with a rubber mallet?

Dan

tapping it sounds good to me.

Hmmm, running engine. I guess it would be how good a running engine? You can have a running engine that is wornout and uses 1 qt. of oil every 200 miles....
Though if its a running engine, that probably isn't to bad a price anymore. I remember when you couldn't give the 216 engines away. I never seen, what kind of mileage (odometer) does the truck have on it? What year is this 216 engine thinking about coming out of?

John

Please post your engine questions in the engine forum.

Sorry. It was a brief segue.

The engine came out of a '46 I'm told, but hopefully I won't need a replacement now.

Dan

nice findgood luck with it.

After two day of messing with it I finally got both drums off the rear. Woot! The axle is totally fine and this baby rolls. I also had a used tire thrown on as the one was totally destroyed.

I also got the stuck valve more-or-less freed up. It opens and closes on its own now but seems to only open about 90%, but you can pry it up the rest of the way with a screwdriver. I figure if I go back and forth on it a while every day it will hopefully be good to go. I also think that if I get a battery in it and keep turning it over with the starter that consistent opening and closing will possibly get it to free up the rest of the way.

Things are coming along good! I am starting on a carb cleaning now (I will eventually fully rebuilt it).

Dan

I feel very naive for asking this, but where does the battery go on my truck? I see a cable hanging out around the engine compartment (positive I guess, as it connects to the starter with other wires) but I can't find the other, nor do I see any place for a battery to sit. Under the seat?

Thanks.

Dan

Check under the floor board, on the passenger side for the battery box.

Thanks!

Oh, someone had asked the mileage. The odometer reads 20k. Boy would that be great if it were true!

Dan

NYours looks like mine did (still does a little). Use marvel mystery oil in ur motor to free it up. By pass the gas tank with a gas can and a hose..Many ppl crank their engine using the original gas tank and suck all the garbage into ur motor for.more headaches.

A 4 foot piece.of fuel line is $4. Chevys of the forties can sell u a new coil..bypass ur electrical with a three pole switch.

u can pull the head to see whats hanging that valve. Id do that before whacking it with a hammer or prying on it.

I put autolite 303 sparkplugs in mine. And new plug wires. U can do all ur volkswagon restoration tricks on checking for spark


Check ur oil dipstick to see if she still has oil

Avoid ethenol gas for ur truck. Its not an issue if u drive it everyday but it will ruin seals in a carb if it sits. Atleast thats what hapoen to.my 235.

Chevy of the forties has new gaskets for fuel.pump.carb etc plus replaxements.

Id pay $250 for a replacement block and tranny. Just for parts or a backup motor to tinker with.



Real steel fenders are often expensive for that year model hold on to what you got. You can get glass fenders fairlt reasonable but watch how high $ real steel is on ebay
The economy was down and not many trucks were produced so urs is worth a bit as it sits.

As with volkswagons getting it titled before spending a lot is always a good strategy. Lots of horror stories on guys spending lots of $ with an untitled vehicle and losing it all to sketchy vin numbers bad previous auto sales etc