The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Installing Floor Pans

I think I have ruined my cab. I cut out more than just rust I thought I need to cut a hole as big as the new floor pan. Big mistake now there is to big of a gap all around. I tried to cutting some 1/8 in sheet metal to fill in but as I weld if there is any cap at all the metal burns away. I tried cutting a wider piece to cover all the metal completely and it sill burned away. I have a 3/32 rod and the power turned down so far that I can hardly make an ark. It is become a mess now. I have welded and then grinned until I am exhausted and haven't even gotten started.

Please help

Rocky

Hey Rocky are you stick welding? You'll need to MIG or TIG weld these since they are sheet metal. I use .030" wire typically in my Lincoln MIG welder when welding sheet metal patch panels. Compare that to your 3/32" electrode which is .094" that's why you are burning thru the pans, the electrode you are using is about 3 times too big.

Perhaps you could post up some photos so we could see what you're up against.

Keep the faith

Right I have arc welder I also have a wire feed welder but with out gas. I don't really won't to go buy another welder is there a rod I could by that would work. My wire feed weld didn't seem to be working so I got out the arc welder.

I will take another picture if this doesn't help

https://www.dropbox.com/s/aljz71pn80cwsua/100_2212.JPG
Thanks

Based on my experiences flux core wire will not work and stick welding will not work for sheet metal. I know that's not what you want to hear but if you would do some searching on the internet I think you will find that what I am saying is valid.

I recall seeing that Eastwood had a device they called a "stitch" welder that used 1/16" rod. The device fastened to your arc welded and allowed you to weld sheet metal. I can't vouch for it, but since you asked, that's the only stick option I have ever heard of for sheet metal. Even using 1/16" rod is to big though for sheet metal. http://www.eastwood.com/stich-welder-welding-quarter-panels-with-the-new-stitch-welder

And based on this, it doesn't sound like Eastwood's device works either: http://autobodystore.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-15005.html

Thanks for the help at least I know what is going wrong. I think I would rather buy a mig. I think the Tigs are very expensive. Now if I buy a mig will it be the last one I will need for this body work?

Just so I know I am look for the right welder will this one work or do you need to be able to use gas.

http://www.harborfreight.com/170-amp-migflux-wire-welder-22-volts-110-amps-68885.html

Yes, buy a mig welder that uses external gas shielding. A 110 Volt will work fine for sheet metal bodywork and will save you some money.

I am a fan of Lincoln Electric, they aren't the cheapest, but they stand behind their products. I bought my SP-100 back in the early 90's and have had zero problems with it.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/process-and-theory/Pages/mig-vs-flux-cored-detail.aspx

So if I buy a mig that uses gas I will be able to weld anything in the future. What about thick metal.

No, it will not weld anything. What do you want to be able to weld?

Aluminum might be a problem.

Look at the thickness specifications for each mig welder. The specs for the HF welder you link-to above is 22 gauge to 1/4" for mild steel and stainless steel.

[i]
Exactly, as tclederman stated ya gotta read the spec's.

Climberman,

The HF (Or HHF as I call them, cause I "Hate Harbor Freight") welder you linked to above doesn't have external shielding gas capability. You want external shielding gas capability. Look at the Lincoln Electric link I posted above, it defines what GMAW (mig) vs. FCAW (flux core) capabilities are. The first sentence speaks volumes...

You are about to make the plunge and buy your first wire feeder welder and you don't want to waste your money on a toy that goes out with the trash in a few weeks

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/process-and-theory/Pages/mig-vs-flux-cored-detail.aspx

Thanks for the help I will read the link to Lincoln electric. I don't won't to use the flux core I guess because my son said that there is lead in the flux, not sure about that. I also don't want to spend a lot of money I won't use it much after my cab is done especially if you can only weld thin metal. I found a used Miller two fifty for sell but haven't checked into it yet. First I will learn about exactly what it is I need. If I find a used one I will post it up here and see what everyone thinks.

Thanks
Rocky

Flux Core Welding - Basics

Have you son look through the MSDS for various flux-core solders. He might as well learn how to find out safety information (and learn what MSDS refers to).

There are flux-core wires that contain lead - these can easily by avoided by reading the MSDS (unless solder wire containing lead is required/recommended for certain metal alloys - respirator required).

My son will definitely be getting this information.

Thanks

You're getting good advice. You need the shielding gas, flux core is still too hot and splatters more. Lincoln is good. We use Miller machines at work and they're good too. Dude I can't even begin to imagine doing body work with a stick welder! I repaired a lawnmower deck for my dad a few years ago with a stick and that was an exercise of patience for sure.

Well I listened and I have done everything as suggested. All though I didn't buy a new mig I found a Craftsman 120 mig for sell I paid 150.00 and it came with the gauges for the argon.

Things are going well now and I am learning how to weld with a mig. A welder in town said 5 minutes on a mig and you will think you are a Pro. Not exactly after a couple of days I am still messing around with the wire feed and the heat and the wire. Got frustrated quit a lot. But it is getting better now.

Here is the next thing I need help with I am sending a link to dropbox for a pic. I just need to know the best way to handle this rusted out part.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/znvawrwxdbv1u6b/welding.jpg

Thanks for the help

Rocky

When installing patch panels, we remove only the compromised parent-material and cut the patch panel, to fit the vacancy. It is common, to use the entire patch panel, since that is what was paid for. We have a virtual bone pile of partial patch panels, with small portions removed, to make the necessary repairs. The parent-material is superior in quality, fit & finish, relative to the sister-material (patch panel). Typically, we find the gauge & quality of the steel in the sister-material, is inferior, compared to the original sheet metal.

I wondered about that. Very good input Tony