remove all 6 volt items, install 12 volt replacements - add dropping resistors to 6V accessories, and change all light bulbs to 12V .... not much confusing about that - see the tech tip, follow the steps
"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir "When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Don't be confused, it's straight forward as Bill says. If you don't understand a certain part, ask a question about that. You don't have to understand electronics and why the resistors do what they do, just do as instructed. Many articles on the web also. The part numbers are given at the bottom of the tip. There may be a word missing from one of the bullets? "Put a Standard Ignition* in the line to the gas gauge." I think that is the ballast resistor mounted on the firewall EL181. Bulbs can be purchased 1958 Truck Bulb Chart and..... on our links page we have a new link, Don's Bulbs.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Don't forget if resistors, where to put them, etc. confuse you, you can get rebuilt gauges that are 12 volts natively. No need for any resistors. 12 volt resistor coil will keep the stock points from burning out too soon, and the hardest part is changing the heater motor and switch. There is more to it, but just take one thing at a time. You will be okay!
The guys here on this forum know their stuff, so keep prodding and asking questions and they will be here for you. They are always here for me!
It really is easy but I understand your apprehension.
Here is a youtube link to a professional shop that does these conversions to help calm your fears:
He miss-speaks a few times, you do not have to use an alternator, 12V generator ok, you do not have to use LED lights.
There is a nice paperback book for about $12 that explains everything well, titled " The Official 12 Volt Conversion Guide". Google the title, many of the parts suppliers carry it.
Thanks guys. I was close. I wasn't quite sure about the points (whether they needed replaced) or what was needed to be done to the generator. The reducers I understood. But those links cleared it up pretty good for me.
I'd like to jump in. I'm doing the conversion too on a 54 3100, using an alternator. I understand the process pretty well (I'm a mechanical eng), but I have read all of write ups on this and everyone words it a little bit different. I which someone (I have already started one) would just make a from-to wiring diagram of this conversion showing the generator and regulator being cut out and what wires are deleted and added. I think this would be a big help in understanding what is being done.
Stove 51 and awk: There are more than one way to do this as you have guessed from the different threads. 1. Use a generator. 2. Use an alternator. Some differences in the wiring for each application. Simply because the power sources are different. The basic things in common are the lights, and the need for drop resistors. The drop resistors help control the current flow through the fan motor and points. The resistor for the fuel gauge insures that you won't run too much current through it as well. Alternator will be wired different because it has an internal rectifier. That converts AC to DC power. The Generator works only with DC so there are differences when you use one or the other. But the lights,fan and gauge are the same. The single wire alternator uses the same regulator just needs it hooked up to the plug that runs the field coils. No charging a "dead" battery with an alternator because it needs some voltage to excite the field coils. The Generator has a pair of permanent magnets that will develop voltage even if the battery is "dead" So with all of that said, yes there are more than one way to convert from 6 volts to 12 volts. Mix in the issues of starter motors and you can get confused. Starters are matched to the flywheel. Use a 6 volt starter with a 6 volt flywheel and it will be fine. Keep a 12 volt starter with a 12 volt flywheel and it will be fine. You get to choose and have fun as you learn. Enjoy!
The single wire alternator I use.. I think its a Delco.. I take the field wire and loop it to the positive connection (all on the alternator). The loop is only a few inches and using 12-14 gauge wire, works really well.
Then, you have one wire that goes direct to the battery (or ignition or whatever you choose) without a regulator. This was recommended on various electrical forums so I tried it on my StartKart setup and works very well.
Alternators can eliminate the need for a regulator, work much more reliably than a generator and are less costly to purchase and maintain. This being said, its not original and looks kinda wonky under the hood. This is why I have inquired about the Genernator. Wish I knew someone who has one.
OK Truckernix, You baited us 6 to 12 volt conversion ID10T's with a statement, and then left, I am going to ask the fatal question. WHY NOT? Go ahead, Have at us with your answer.
Have a look at TC's diagram. You will see the connection to the ammeter. Imagine an alternator capable of producing 60 or more amps hooked up through the ignition feed which might be good for something like maybe 14 amps. Does that seem right to you?
Yeah, that's the beauty of a one wire alternator. Easy to hook up, no regulator, and it even charges at lower rpms. Good stuff. Now if I could get one that looked like a generator, I would be very happy!