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Joined: Aug 2011
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Shop Shark
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Well, my painter is way behind schedule (another topic.) It will be several weeks until he starts on my truck. I am considering replacing the front cab shims (square rubber) and rear shackle bushings.

I am working on a 1950 3600. There's no bed on the back. I have not had the cab off the frame. There's not much rust on things and the truck rides pretty decent so I really don't want to open a can of worms....

First question, can I raise the cab enough to get the job done without any other disassembly?

Next, how difficult is the task? I'm assuming for the rear shackles, it's best to remove them, then replace the bushings?

Looks like front pads (shims) and rear shackle bushings are pretty cheap.

Looking for some feedback please.

Thanks.

truck pic


David Gilmore
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'Bolter
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David,
Great question, I'm subscribing to the thread.
BTW, I drove to Bend Or. to pick up the original 216 for my 53. Now the title (engine number) is tied to the truck again. Don't know if I'll ever do anything with this babbit pounder but I got it home now. Good luck on your paint job.
Steve

Last edited by sstock; 08/02/2013 7:59 PM.

1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
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1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
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Renaissance Man
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It is a piece of cake. For the rear shackles, first loosen the front cab bolts (but keep them in place) put a 2x2 foot piece of plywood under floor and jack up the rear just enough to take the tension off the shackles, then unbolt them. Then replace the rubber bushings and reinstall shackles and check clearance and shim if necessary. The clearance is important for allowing the clutch, brake, and gas pedals to pass through the holes in the cab. A little bit off and they rub on the holes. For the front mounts, remove the bolts and jack up the front of the cab enough to change the rubber squares.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Thanks guys. Steve, I also have my original engine.. (on stand)

Carl,
Sounds like an afternoon's worth of work, UNLESS there are any problems. Sounds reasonable...



David Gilmore
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'Bolter
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Just did my '49 1/2T last month...no problems. Used a little silicone spray to get the bushings in. Did them off the truck so I could clean them up and paint them


Ed
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Carl/Ed,
Did it make a substantial difference in the ride?


David Gilmore
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Can't say it was substantial but it did raise the cab up further away from the frame. Did give me the satisfaction of doing it myself!


Ed
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Since these frames are designed to flex when traveling over uneven roads, mounting the cab solidly to the frame, front and back, would cause deformation of the cab. The shackles allow the cab to articulate when the frame flexes. If you had severe wear of the bushings, you would have problems with pedal alignment, and weird noises, but I don't think you will get much improvement in the ride. BTW I have replaced three sets of these rubber bushings on 3 AD trucks and had a hard time getting them out. If I didn't need to clean and paint the shackles, I would have left the old bushings in place.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Good advise. I have the new parts on order so we'll see....

Thanks.


David Gilmore
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Seems to me I had to destroy the old bushings to get them out and then install the new ones. Had to do a little jockeying of the cab to get the brackets remounted on the frame but it wasn't that hard. Used a punch to get 1 hole lined up and was on my way!


Ed

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