The Stovebolt Site Forums The Side Lot Old Dominion Stovebolt Society (MD, VA, West VA, DC, DE and PA) need some assistance

Gents,
next sunday I would like to lift my cab off of the frame (already unbolted). Anyone willing to assist after church? I also might need some assistance removing my leaf springs since i can't figure out how to get the front bolt out of the rear leaf springs. Yes, I have tried a BFH (sledge), penetrating oil, torch/heat and 15/16th socket to unscrew it. I figure that one of you have knowledge that i don't have.

Chris

Hey Chris, Just today, I've been dealing with my right rear leaf spring. In fact, I had some help from my buddy Charlie (Age 68) who has removed these things. Here is how: 1)Jack stands under frame just forward of the front of the rear leaf springs so rear wheels are not touching the ground; 2)remove rear tires (initially loosen nuts prior to getting tires off the ground; 3) remove nuts/bolts from shackles from rear of the rear leaf springs; and 3)Jack stands now under each side of the rear axle beside the pumpkin (rear). This takes pressure off the leaf springs. You need help doing this job. Good luck. V/R, Nick

Nick,

So far I have gotten the rear shackles off and the axle unbolted. I am unable to get the front pins out. I have tried everything that i can think of to include grinding which I realized that i probably shouldn't have done. There is no weight on the leaf springs since they are just laying on the ground.

Chris

Front spring shackle pins in the frame?

They're threaded in a bushing that is pressed in the frame.
If the pin is stuck in the bushing might as well push it out bushing and all.
A big C-clamp looking ball joint press is a real easy way to do it.

Grigg

Grigg,

Let's see if i can say it a different way and not confuse everyone again. The front pin or single pin on the REAR leaf springs, not the shackle itself at the rear of the rear leaf springs. WOW, that sounds messed up just saying it.

That sound as bad as when someone says... "take a left here, right" and you answer with "right". haha

Chris

Remove lock bolt. Plenty of penetrating oil... you can get a punch inside the frame and may have more hammer swinging room than from the outside if bed is in place. A big solid punch and bigger hammer.
If no luck stop and heat the hanger Around the pin.

Grigg,

I will keep doing what i am doing then with the oil, a few swings and heating hanger twice a day until it finally comes out or at least turns.

Thanks guys!

Keep in mind lots of halfhearted taps with a hammer is a good way to swell the pin making it even more difficult to remove.
Be serious about it, use a solid bar just smaller than the pin and swing a big hammer like you mean it.
If a lick or three doesn't present any movement wait, heat, and try again later.

EDIT
I may be confused. I have been thinking about 3/4 ton and larger which have a straight pin and a cross bolt to secure it. If the 1/2 ton is similar then I haven't given you bad info....?

Grigg

So what about the cab? Woodbridge area if I recall. Do you have any help yet?

I don't have any assistance as of right now. Yes woodbridge.

Chris,
What exactly did you grind? The inboard of the pin where the lock-nut goes??? If you havent unscrewed the pin at least 1/2 of an inch, you need to do that first before you beat on it any more.

I'd start with a breaker bar and a pipe to break the pin/bolt loose. If you need to apply heat, heat the inboard leg of the spring mount...That's where the threaded portion is.

Russ, that is what i was looking for... I couldn't figure out if it was threaded or not. I cut the inboard side of the pin where the lock nut goes. It is so rusted/tight that i have started to strip the head of the pin. I am going to work on it some more tonight and see what happens.

Thanks!

I just got one pin out, the other i stripped the head on the pin when attempting unscrew it. Not sure what i am going to do how... might get interresting!