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will the stock ignition switch handle 12 volts. Thanx

switches don't care about volts, it's amps that count, 6V wiring is heavier to deal with higher amps, 12V involves lower amps

Bill

Will my hub caps fit? What knob should I use? Where is my yellow screw driver? Will I be rich? Will I be pretty? What vehicle do I have?

I'm not sure how that helps. For some people, electrical is not a comfortable topic.

One needs to the voltage rating of the switch. THis should be supplied by a reputable manufacturer. If not labeled for 12 V and that is what you want to use it on proceed but cautiosly.

In think posters should explain what vehicle rather than just ask an off the wall question about an unknown switch. "Stock" to what truck? That was my point. Shouldn't we advise new guys to give some info? Is he going from 6 to 12? what is he doing? There are many members that can help if they know what the question is about.

Granted but tact isn't a dirty word.

After Bill posted his helpful information, here is what would have sufficed as a helpful/friendly response:

What year truck?
Original ignition switch?
Are you switching to 12v, or is the truck already 12v?

geez, we're here talkin about pre-72 trucks, very often pre-55 6V ones being converted to 12V, make some simple assumptions or look at the posters previous posts, all that matters is I=E/R, a mfgrs "voltage rating" of the switch is irrelevant, the year as well, many places sell the identical switch for either 6 or 12

Bill

OK never mind. Will try to be more tactful, less humorous, more sensitive. I guess I'm being asked to ask the poster because no one else needs any info to answer? Which I kind of already did.

Dear Sir, I have taken the time for you and checked your other posts to figure out what vehicle, engine and electrical requirements you may have to the best of my ability. I may have misinterpreted some of your posts as to what all you have, hope this helps.
Your stock switch should probably be changed to a newer 55.2/up switch because you have a 1952 3100 and seems you are upgrading to: bucket seats, 350 Small block, power glide transmission and open drive shaft. The SBC starts/runs on 12V as you know. The switches are fairly inexpensive and you don't have to worry about the design being of adequate spacing of terminals to prevent arcing or creep. As said, the size of contacts should be fine. Another factor is that the stock switch, if it is old, should be replaced anyway so why not get a 12V. There is not a definite agreement on running half 6V and half 12V components. You will need to study the various parts that can or can not run on various voltages, I.E. other switches, bulbs, radio, heater motor, gauges, lighter, wiper motor if electric, etc. to determine what, if any, resistors or diodes are needed. It's all on here somewhere. No doubt you will have a 12V battery with a 350 but changing other 6V components may be necessary. For now you are only asking about the Ignition switch.

Bartamos, You have my apologies.I tried to do,a search and couldn't find anything to satisfy my question. So in my rush for knowledge I posted without being specific. I do in fact have 52' 3100. That now has a small block 350 and I'm uncomfortably rewiring the truck to 12v. My idea was to,use the trucks stock ignition switch as a on - off and the use a push button type switch to start the truck. Went to the usual places Lmc,brothers, classic nobody really says if their replacement switches are good for 12 volt or not. So I came to a place were I knew people,a lot more knowledgable than myself hang out, and I was right.
Thank you to all for responses. If anybody can shed anymore light on my
situation I would appreciate it. Thanx Bill

Hey man, kinda new to this,are you replacing any of the wiring to the switch or components running of the new ignition switch, and no the voltage range don't matter, just the amprage flow rated for the switch.??

chill, one of our members [oldbluetruck] found that a 60-66 ignition switch worked well for his AD, you should consider that, rigging a push button can be a challenge if you're not comfortable with wiring, another of the members is currently struggling with getting that to work

Bill

Well I'm using a northwest autowire harness so that makes it quite a bit easier.
And have everything working with a aftermarket toggle and push button. I just started getting greedy and thought about using the stock ignition switch would be cleaner looking than the NASCAR dash with a bunch of toggles and such.

well, you could make the stock 52 switch function for one of the toggles at least, to put power to the coil, then you'd have a way to 'lock' the ignition, but you'll still need the push button for the starter, where a key start switch would eliminate that as well

Bill

No apologies necessary. I was just confused about my colleagues. So if you are using a push button, it means you don't have a foot stomp. Bills advice is even more right on. Use a stock spring loaded key switch from 55.2 up, not the foot type. This is clean, simple, rated for use and original looking, just like you want.
http://www.classicparts.com/1955-59-Ignition-Switch-Original-Key/productinfo/53-411/#.UfgzhoSDTX4
http://www.classicparts.com/1947-66-Ignition-Switch-Cylinder-w_Key/productinfo/53-475/#.UfgznoSDTX4
http://www.classicparts.com/1947-59-Ignition-Switch-Universal-Key/productinfo/53-441/#.Ufgzv4SDTX4
It could very well be that one or both of those switches you are using will fail or be dangerous. As a related issue that brings up a question I have. Why does my new 1959 Panel 6cyl have a foot stomp. I thought they "switched" over before that. What is the history re: Foot stomp in TF.

I like a key start. I have an original key set up like the pictures from classic parts. It has the cylinder and key. I also have the generic one. I have no use for them. I like the 60-66 cylinder and can use a key set from the 47-53 cylinder.

Not sure why you don't like the 55-59? The key cylinder I linked will work for 47-66 which includes the 55-59 I linked. So if you get a 55-59, you can use the 47-53 cylinder. If you want to use a 60-66, that's fine with me. I meant to say 55.2/up. NOT 55.1/up in my post. I changed my previous post. Let me know what is better about the 60-66 than the 55-59 so I will know. Actually is says 62-66 at Classic Parts? I see it's less than 1/2 the price of 55-59 and some have a "key shroud" cylinder like tri-five cars. Thanks

apparently the 62-66 switch fits in the AD dash position better than the 55-59 ... all good, key start suits GM wiring diagrams and harnesses by default, toggle switches are for buses, and push buttons are for Fords

Bill

Thanks Bill.

Yes, the 62-66 switch fits into the 47-53 housing, appears to look original, and uses the same key cylinder.

How does it mount though. Can I use my stock 52 bracket. And when I say bracket I mean the housing the stock switch screws to. Thanx guys

OK boys, here's the deal, you have a switch and you have a cylinder and you have a bracket on 47-53. I assume your trucks have foot starter. If so, the switches are just on and off. So if someone says "the 62-66 switch fits into the housing": since the switch and the housing are the same thing, I don't know what they mean. If you can use a 62-63 switch (and whatever cylinder you want) and that spring loaded type switch fits into the dash or into the bracket, then that is what I would do. It sounds like Oldblue is saying the 62-66 fits, not sure what it fits? The hole, the bracket or both or ? The spring loaded switch has an extra momentary spot to engage starter, no push button necessary. that will look the best. Supposedly all years of cylinders will fit the 62-66 switch. (47-66) That only matters if you want to use your stock key/cylinder, otherwise you would just buy a new cylinder with keys for $10 along with the new switch. $20. and bezel nut. $7. and make them fit the dash hole and forget the bracket. The new switches are "Panel" mounted, meaning they are held in place by a nut on the front, the dash is sandwiched between the switch and the nut, no bracket. They will have an anti-rotation key or slot or hole which you may have to add. When switching to a 12V V8 350 you don't want a on/off setup anymore! You want what Bill refers to as key start. 55-59 or 62-66 whichever fits. Not trying to pick words but the switch assembly you buy consists of a switch body or housing with rotating contacts built into it and blade or screw terminals out the back. The reason I keep recommending the 55-59 switch is the 62-66 looks like it would need a think spacer behind the dash whereas the 55-59 has threads all the way to the switch body.

Need pics

Go to www.classicparts.com and study all the electrical ignition parts for 47-54, 55-59, 60-66.

Easy. I have a 6 volt system and use a 6 volt starter from a 52 Chevy car. I like the key start. I have a 1948 3100.

So. To convert for the floor stomp start to a key start in a 47-53 Chevy truck.

Use the 47-53 bracket.
Use the 62-66 switch and get a 62-66 face nut. Screw the nut you get with the switch all the way back. Put this through the 47-53 bracket. The hole in the bracket is about the same size as the outside diameter of the 62-66 switch. Screw the face nut to tighten it on to the 47-53 bracket.
Use your existing key cylinder or buy a new one.

When you attach it to your dash it looks like the original ignition switch except you will have the forth pole for a key start.

Hope this is clear

There's the answer Chil. Good job Blue. I think I'm the only one who didn't get it until now.

No problem. Just hope it helps