The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop 1946 Chevy/ GMC windsheld glass and seal install help needed

Iam trying to figure out what is needed to install the glass in the frame. And how to install the rubber windshield seal. Does anyone have any tips they could share? I have searched the net for some kind of install instruction. But I have had no luck finding any

Thanks for the link, and I never would have thought to search for pre war truck windshield install instructions. So the seal actually dits in a channel around the frame? I haven't taken it apart yet because i'm just now painting the truck cab and fenders, hood. But I figured that I better look up some windsheild glass install tips because that was my next step. I have already picked up some 3M bedding glazing compund and some 3M clear auto sealer. What would I use the bedding & glazing coumpound on? And where does the clear auto sealer go on setting the glass?

I just completed my windshield. I spoke with the folks at Steele and they were great. If you have not gotten the frame apart that's the most difficult part. What I did was to assemble the glass into the frame with the middle divider installed as well. Then you need to space it up from the back side to center the glass. Tape off both the glass and the frame. Using an auto urethane glass caulking you squeeze that between the glass and frame. Remove the tape. Let it sit over night and flip the frame over the next day. Remove the spacers repeat the taping step again insert the caulking and remove the tape. Now make sure the center divider is sealed so no water gets in. Check at top and bottom frame interface. I did the door glass the same way. You can do the above with glass setting tape but it will seep water over time. You don't fill the whole channel with urethane because glass replacement would be very difficult. You use the Bedding & Glazing compound on the outside groove for the rubber. I put a bead in the groove. You need a nylon putty knife or tools to work the rubber into the groove. If you have a single molded seal your done if you used a piece you need to join you join the rubber ends with supper glue. You use the clear sealer between the glass and rubber. I only needed it for the rea window. Not the windshield or doors.

the info you gave me is exactly what I needed to know, thanks for all the help. I wil paint the front section of the truck tomorrow. Then while the paint is curing out I will tackle the windsheild, thanks again

If you need more details let me know. I had to cut the frame to get the glass out. Mine was 1946 glass. There are drain holes in the window cab corners. Make sure they work.

I had a local glass shop install the glass into the frames using polyeurethane caulking. Purchased a new center bar ( rubber preinstalled in stainless ) from Steeles after trying forever to get Jim Carter rock hard rubber into thin stainless trim. Also purchased rubber perimeter seal ( windshield frame to body ) from Steeles. Soft and pliable made it easy to install in " Tee " slot around frame. Cut to length and glue butt joint with 3M adhesive specified by Steeles.

I picked the rubber seal and the glazing and auto sealer from Steele. And it is sitting here waiting to be installed. The Steele seal is a bit higher then the other vendors. But I have tried using seals from Jim Carters and found that the Steele parts fit better and quality is better also. Thanks again for all the tips and I will do the windshield repair and post a update on how it went.

more importantly is to make sure they go somewhere. after i did mine it rained and i was soaked and wasnt happy. after rewiring a 41 big bolt i saw these tubes from the bottom of the window opening that went down through the floor. i didnt remember seeing them on mine so when i got home and looked i said i had to get wet because there were no tubes. they run behind the channel on the front side of the door frame and theres holes in the floor to put the tubing. i used clear hose from the window to where it goes through the floor then i added copper and have them sticking out about 2 inches. that way if the hose get blocked you can where it is and when its cleaned out. even then the window still leaks but its in the rubber around the frame. i didnt use steele but that is in the plans to replace it with steele.

I just remembered one more detail. I used some small pieces of glass setting tape to space the glass away from the metal in the bottom of the glass channel.