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| | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 43 | 1948 Chevy 1/2 ton. Drilled out dowels for front & rear bushings & removed front bushing. Purchased Okie assy from Classic parts. Removed burrs from spline, greased seal on okie and started the process of hammering into place. I have hammered okie until it is 1/2 to 3/8 inch from being flush with the torque tube but it seems to have bottomed out or stopped moving. Don't want to push my luck. Has anyone had this problem with Okie assy? I am hoping I don't have to disassemble the whole diff and pull to pull tube and remove this Okie.
Keith
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 8 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 8 | I have a 54 half ton and was able to install my okie bushing flush with the end of the torque tube.
Stump
1969 C-10
With - 305 C.I.
Short Wheelbase - Stepside
1986 C-10
With 350 C.I.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | Some Okies are very tight to drive in.
I use an old rear yoke with a used front bushing slid on it to drive against the Okie.
As long as the U' joint will slide into the Okie far enough to clear the rear of the trans when you bring it up in place I would think you will be fine.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 | I just recently installed a new one. Mine fit flush as well. The Master Parts manual describes those as having multiple lengths. As one of the previous posters stated, it may work, but it sounds like if it bottomed out before being flush, it isn't the correct length.
If it is just the length and other than that it is ok, you could take a Dremel (enabling you to get inside the flange and bushing) and cut it off closer to flush. This would ensure it doesn't bind the u-joint. | | |
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