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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 159
H
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 159
I have read many of the excellent threads on this topic, and now I am ready to start. I am confident about everything except the pillar mounts. Here is my specific question:

Several posts have mentioned the pre-punched holes, high enough on each pillar, which seem to be in the right place but are hidden by the windlace. I checked and I do have these holes. Has anyone actually used these holes for the bolts? I have removed the headliner, and seems like I can drop a 1 1/4 backup plate into the pillar, and I can see my test plate through the hole. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Last edited by harryr; 06/25/2013 1:59 PM.
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 14
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New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 14
Juliano's has a step by step instructions for a 5 window on their website http://www.julianos.com/how2_3point_antique_chevy_truck.html

I would sit in the truck and see where a good height would be for the upper mount based on your height and the height of the seat so the shoulder strap comes across you in the right place.

Roger

Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 159
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Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 159
I had seen the guide you mention, but my truck is nicely finished, and I any don't want to do any welding or grinding. I plan simply to insert the backing plate into the pillar, and insert the bolt from the cab side.

Last edited by harryr; 06/27/2013 4:59 PM.
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,001
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Shop Shark
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Joined: Jun 2010
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May I suggest using a pop rivet to hold the backing plate in place. Simply use the seatbelt bolt to hold the backing plate in position. Then drill a hole for a pop rivet through the sheet metal and backing plate. The seat belt and cover trim will hide the pop rivet if rivet placed below bolt. No welding required and backing plate will not fall down if someone removes the belt in the future.

Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 159
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Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 159
Good idea, but I dont want to drill any extra holes. The tech at Julianos suggested two-steps: first make sure it fits while hanging on to the plate with a wire or whatever. When sure it is OK, coat the flat surface with epoxy or JB Weld, then fit it up and tighten. The epoxy will compress and permanently lock the plate in position. I think I like that!

Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 159
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Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 159
The JB Weld worked like a charm, and the final results are great. Only problem I ran into was that the inboard belts were a bit too short to use easily, even though I mounted them in the right place. Called Juliano's and they suggest to make a simple bracket, using suitable steel, to form an extension that would add the 3-4 inches I needed. They would be under the seat, and would not show. I went to the hardware store and found some steel "mending brackets" that were about 3/16 thick. They were predrilled, so all I had to do was open up the holes to 7/16 and add a fine thread bolt and nut.

Great product, outstanding quality, and very helpful people. Now if I could just get the windlace back in with no wrinkles I would be 100% happy.

Last edited by harryr; 07/08/2013 5:29 PM.
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