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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 | Hi All,
I have read many posts indicating that I should see an engine number somewhere near the distributor, but for the life of me, I cannot see any numbers other than the GM and 48 in a circle on the crankcase to the lower left. There is a horizontal flange to the left of the distributor base but it is without numbers. Exactly where should I be looking? It would be nice if there were photos in these engine identification posts that had arrows to where these numbers are exactly. Also when checking the door pillar tag it was completely unreadable. I could not get one single piece of VIN info of of it. It makes me wonder if this vehicle's information was intentionally obliterated?
Many thanks,
jose | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | José, locations of low-pressure 235 and 216 codes If you have no code on the engine serial number location, either you have a factory replacement engine or someone has ground off the code. Can you post a photo of the Vehicle Serial Number location on the door tag; or, have you tried to put a piece of paper over the tag and then rub a pencil over the location of the marking? | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 | Tim, you are correct, the flat area in your photo where the engine serial number is supposed to be is completely smooth, no numbers at all! The door tag, I have felt and there are no discernable indentations or raised areas. It would not even photograph well because it is just one big smeared, smooth plate of metal. I will try to take a better photo of it with the regular camera instead of my iPhone and try to post it. I have to go read the 'how to post photos' first though.. | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 | Ok, here goes, please see pics. I chalked the block and the casting code is 3835253 = 216; the date code is C 31 8 = March 31 1948 and the serial number appears not to be there. As for the VIN, I think I will remove the plate and aren't there some solutions I can use to reveal stamped metal? Or I will get after it with a magnifier.. VIN Plate Engine Block Casting Code Engine Date Code Engine Serial Number | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 | In looking at the pictures of the VIN I can now make out what looks like 6 FS! | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2007 Posts: 48 | Ok, last post. I verified the VIN with a magnifier. It reads 5 FS - D 1867. So according to my secret decoder ring, that appears to be the 866th truck made in Kansas City, MO of the 137 wheel base 1-Ton, made in April 1948. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Almost: 867th truck in Kansas City ( started the count at 1001) | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 | another way to read the tag and that is required here in pa for an antique title is to cover the tag with a sheet of paper and with a pencil lightly go over the paper with the pencil and it will be like a magical etch a skech and what info is on the tage will appear on the paper. | | |
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