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| | | Forums66 Topics128,060 Posts1,055,835 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | Now that I have the front end finished, this weekend I'd like to start on the routing and wiring of the electrical components.
I’m using the E-Z wire 21 circuit and the Dolphin gauges, I’m using analog fuel, oil psi, temp and amps gauges, 12 volt clock and Tachometer. I understand basic wiring, but will probably have a ton of questions on different needs etc.
I also believe in using the right tool for the job, with that being said I would to ask the first advice on the following.
What type stripping tool should I get, an auto wire stripper - self gauging or a manual one?
What type of or brand of electrical connections and /or tape I would think 3-m is the best on the tape?
Thanks Jake | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | that stripmaster is way overkill - and note that nearly all the wires you'll be dealing with on a truck will be 10-16 gauge, nothing heavier except battery cables, and anything smaller won't handle any amount of current - also strippers for solid wire can be different than those for stranded, you don't want to be scoring a strand or 2 that will break off later - get a plain simple stripper marked for the gauges and test it on some scrap to insure it suits the particular wire you're using, although skilled use of a knife can do the job well with practice for connectors [which I'd think were supplied with the kit], use the best ones with the heat shrink sleeves, or at least ones with good nylon covers that stretch when crimped instead of the cheap plastic sleeve ones that get cut or break when crimped - and don't use tape except as a wrap for bundles, and even then expect the ends to come unglued over time - use heat shrink on terminal ends at connections - soldering connectors on is a good idea, but not a necessity if good connectors and crimpers are use with the proper technique I should do a tech tip about wiring  Bill | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | I agree with Red. Use non-insulated terms. Solder thaem & use heat shrink tubeing. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 14 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 14 | The Stripmasters may be overkill, but they give great results and are marked for the various gauge wires, both solid and stranded. I've also got the Klein strippers that Red recommends, and do still grab them when in a tight spot, but for fine work I like the Stripmasters.
Tim | | |
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