The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Leaking Axle Seals 1948 Chevy 1/2 ton ??

After much assistance from the helpful folks on Stovebolt I had finally started driving my basically stock 1948 AD 1/2 ton to work twice a week when I noticed what appeared to be brake fluid on the inside of the left rear wheel. I checked master cylinder and it was indeed low. I refilled it and drove couple more days to work thinking it was a wheel cylinder and awaited a replacement part to come in the mail. When I finally took off the drum I was very suprised to find a greasy mess everywhere! Went straight to the stovebolt website and started checking forums for information. Based on what I have read it looks like I need to replace the axle seals. I haven't checked yet but I believe the seal in the torque tube is probably shot as well. Based on the comments in the forums you guys have lots of experience dealing with these leaks. When I change out the torque tub seal can a stock replacement be purchased or is the Okie seal the best way to go. I am frustrated because I have my truck up on jack stands and want to tackle this leak issue so I can get it back on the road.
Thanks

I believe the easiest way to check if your torque tube seal is leaking would be to check the differential fluid level. If it's not over full then your torque tube seal is ok. If your trans fluid is low and rear end high then fluid is moving past the torque tube seal and it needs fixing. If you are seeing fluid coming out at the brake drum your axle seals are shot and need fixing, a much easier task than replacing the torque tube seal. I believe consensus is Okie seal is best way to go if you need it.

I have suffered both problems, leaking axle seal and torque tube seal. The easiest solution for the torque tube seal is the Okie seal. It is not hard to replace but is time consuming. As mentioned by Forty9 above you should check your differential fluid to see if the torque tube seal is the culprit.
The axle seal is a bit more work. But before you take it on you should check to be certain your axle vent is not blocked. This would not allow pressure to vent and could force fluid thru the seals.

Thanks Ed & Sedgewick for the guidance. I haven't checked the differential fluid level yet, but will do so this weekend. I just have the back up on jacks at the brakes apart. The left rear was the side with all of the grease behind the drum. It had the brake shoe lining off and I can't describe how much grease was everywhere. When I pulled the drum on the right rear brakes they were clean and intact however reaching behind the axle hub there was tons of grease oozing out of the deflector so I assume it is best to change both axle seals at once, correct?
Thanks again

Sedgwick mentioned the axle vent being blocked. In glancing at the vent from the left rear the it appears to be wet around it as if some fluids have vented out. It wasn't like that when I started driving it a couple of times a week two months ago. Would this be an indicator of fluid leaking past the torque tube?

Since you have to open the rear end to do one seal you may as well do both. That way you can inspect the shafts were the seals ride and won't have to worry down the road if you'll have another "surprise". Definitely sounds like your tranny fluid has migrated to the rear end but check the tranny level to be sure.

Thanks Ed,
Do you have to pull the old bearing and seal before installing the okie seal? If so I read that the tool for this is hard to come by. Any suggestions?

Keith

Keith, Have been lucky enough to not have had to install the okie bushing yet. Google "okie bushing install" for info like this. Vendors that sell bushing often rent tool. Also note that okie bushings are different based on truck year so be sure you know if the current bushing are held in by dowel pin or press fit.

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/163391/

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0405.htm

Ed
Thanks for the references and information. I opened the truck manual page you sent and it indicates 1948-49 are dowel pinned.
My truck is a 1948 so I assume I should be able to see that pin on the outside of the torque tube. If it is a dowel pin holding it once I drill out the pin and remove the bushing will the hole be covered up by the oakie bushing or will this be a source of a leak? Also since it is not pressed in shouldn't the bushing come out easier than pressed fit?

Once the dowel pin is out of the torque tube you have to remove the bushing. Without the special tool it can be difficult. I drilled into the old bushing and put in a screw. I used a slide hammer which I put over the screw head and drew the bushing out. The seal can stay in place and will be pushed into the tube when you install the Okie assembly. I never pinned my Okie and so far it has been fine although having said that I am leaking fluid around the ball housing/transmission collar.
The axle vent if showing fluid around it means it is working. You can also move it or twist it to free it up.
Finally to verify if the fluid you are finding in the drum is tranny oil then just smell it. It has a smell unlike regular motor oil or brake fluid. If you have a bottle of tranny fluid smell it to compare.

I opened the differential drain plug this morning and gear oil started flowing out of the filler hole. This was with the rear jacked up a couple of inches so I guess this is enough to conclude the torque tube seal is leaking. Can I pull the torque by starting at the collar connecting to the 4speed trans & I bolting the universal, or does this job require disconnecting the whole rear end from leaf springs & moving the rear end backwards?

Just unbolt the collar and universal. Support the torque tube when you do. All can be done under truck. When I changed my U-joint I found it convenient to remove the rear motor mount cross member for easier access to the ball collar. Be prepared for fluid to migrate back from the rear end when you lower the tube to work on it. Sedgewick is right, that tranny fluid is nasty smelling stuff!

Thanks Ed & Sedgewick for the guidance and patience answering my questions and concerns. I am going to tackle this project the next couple of weekends[ Wife permitting

I drilled out the dowels in my torque tube holding the front and rear bushings in place. As suggested I used a small drift and was able to push the front bushing out of the tube far enough to get a hold of with pliers and remove. I cleaned up the splines removing any burrs and then put some grease on the seal on the okie and began the installation process.
I tried hammering with some hardwood against okie and didn't make much progress.[ later read that they sometimes need to be turned at a machine shop] I then used a large brass drift one inch in diameter and 8 inches long to hammer okie in and it went fairly well with until about 1/2 to 3/8 of the okie still sticking out of torque tube and the seems to have bottomed out?? Any suggestions? Does the okie absolutely have to be flush with the end of the torque tube? I haven't tried heat as I was concerned about the seal on the rear. Also, the universal assy that slides into the okie over the spline fits extremely tight in the oakie. You can barely move it with a wrench.