The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop what year 235 to look for??

I have a 49 chevy with a 48 splasher that has gone bad. Would rather spend money and try to find maybe a 235. Looking for something that would basically be a straight swap but withn the improved oiling system. Would appreciate any advice on what year 235 I need to look for. Thanks.

Anything after '54, plus the'53 Passenger w/Powerglide, the '55 and later (exept '55 Truck 1rst series)will require relocating the water pump, though. You might also consider a '54 or later 261, which will get you the full pressure oiling plus a little more power.

how would a person relocate the water pump? would that mean just purchasing a short pulley pump to allow room for the fan to stay away from the radiator? Also, what about motor mounts can I still use the front and rear mounts or would I have to go to side mounts. As you guys can see I am not very experienced in this. I exchanged my original 49 (that needed a complete rebuild )for a 48 and it has a deep knock n it so I am trying to make this my last engine replacement. Thanks

Go to photo 17 here waterpump adapter and read on.

Try to find a 54 motor first as no modifications to the water pump will be needed with that motor,I looked at a 54 before buying the 57 235 and now wished I would have bought the 54.

Isn't there a difference between HP, torque and oiling between the 54 and 57 235's?

54-57 235

Yes on hp (and, most likely in torque)

no significant difference in oiling

HP only has to do with cam, head and carb between the years, all of which most likely have been changed or will be changed.

Great information, Clears up a lot of questions I was having, thanks so much. what a great forum.

You wont believe this but I had a 54 3 window that I traded for my 49 5 window. The 54 had the original 235 and was running good. I am going to try and find the guy I traded with, heard he was planning on changing out the 235 for a 283, maybe he still has the 235 n his barn.

I have been looking for a 54 thru 63 six to go in my 51 but so far no luck. I might be forced to rebuild my 216. My motor runs fine but knocks horribly. I adjusted the mains and rods but still knocks. I think it must be a piston slap or wrist pin. I used a broomstick to listen with and hear just a whirr at the crank level and LOUD knock at the cylinder level. If anyone has a motor please contact me.

I have rebuilt both the 54 235 and the newer ones. I got a kick out of how chevy used older parts to put together the 54 235. They actually used the oil pump and filter from a 53 216. Some of the other parts were from leftover 216 as well. Its a great engine and runs every bit as good as the newer ones, but it IS a mismatch of parts in that year. You wont be troubled unless you order internal engine parts for a 235 engine.

The short shaft water pump the usual suppliers sell works great so that you don't have to move the radiator but you will also need the old 216 fan since it is pitched a little differently to ensure the space is conserved properly. Once I learned about the short shaft pump and 216 fan, my 261 fit just fine. Makes me wonder why more than 50% of all of the trucks I have and have seen have the radiator relocated, sheet metal all cut up to accommodate the newer 235. Grrrrrr!

I took a short water pump and pulley off a 47 1 1/2 ton in a junkyard that had a later 235 that looked factory,that truck had been in there many years and before all the shortened pumps and adapter came on the market. I have seen a couple more that looked like it had the same pump so i am wondering if GM made a short pump after the 55 motors came in production to install in the earlier trucks,I have no parts manuals that I can check it out but that truck probably had been sitting in that yard since the 60s.

I'm in the same boat. Looking for best "bolt in" solution.
'48 2tn., block cracked from #2-#5

This is what I have learned so far. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

'53 pass.w/pwglide or 'vett, then '54-'62=full oil pressure.
The Vett and trucks had mech.lifters or did they all change somewhere along the way? I think I want solid for the big truck, right?
Then there is the timing gear issue. I believe the cars had the fiber gear and the trucks had the metal, for some reason I'm thinking Al. I feel, that is what I'm after.
Is there a difference between the light trucks and the big bolts?

Now what about the water pump? Can I use the pump off my '48 and just get the adapter or is there more to it than that?

I was hoping for possibly a '53 to keep the bolt appearance, but if not, I'm willing to go with a later 235 or a 261, as long as the motor mounts are correct as red49 mentions.

Now, after looking at that HP chart, that tc put up, I'm thinking '58 235 tk. or '58-'62 261 tk. or mid '54-'55 Vett.
Is it important that it be a truck engine for the heavy trucks? I will be hauling loads with her eventually.

Is there anything I have overlooked or am I set to go?

What say ye?

Thanks,
D.

Correct.
Vett and trucks are all solids but hydraulics would work fine.
That will work well but only necessary on a 1955-62 engine.

No problem except you may need to drill two holes in the timing plate.

No

So I don't THINK I am wrong here, but Chevy made the post 53 235 and then modified mostly externals for different applications. ANY 235 or 261 engine from 54-62 will be just fine. If you want hydraulic lifters, your engine shop will provide them for you for any block. If you want the acorn nuts on top of the engine to make it look like a 216 authentic year, just buy the kit or do it yourself. You are over thinking it.

You should have whatever engine you get rebuilt.. if you do it yourself you need the block cleaned and machined and the head machined as well. If you want a different cam, whatever. that is the time. Hope this helps! Next is important!

ANY time you purchase a 236 or 261 from anyone you run the risk of the cylinders already machined to 6 thousands over (the max) and makes it worthless. So be careful that you don't pay for any unknown engine more than you are willing to gamble with. Or make a deal with the seller that the engine shop needs to approve its rebuilding capability before purchase. I have 5 235's and a 261 and I wouldn't sell any of them to anyone because I am not sure how much rebuilding has been done, how many of the heads are good, etc. Just buyer beware.

GM never made one. We made them ourselves by pressing the pulley mount closer to the pump, cutting the excess shaft off and used a 292 Ford pulley.

Jim Carter and I am sure others sell a short shaft water pump. Jim says to use a 216 fan with it because of the flat nature of the way it is made. Keeps everything the proper distance. I did this with my 261 and am very pleased. I have 6 trucks and every stinkin one of them, someone didn't know about the short shaft pump so what did they do? Hacked the radiator bracket and sheet metal to move the radiator forward. Its not that expensive to just do it right. Someone like me then has to fix all the damage!

I have a 292 Y block on the engine stand right now and will see if the pulley fits.

Couple of errors. It will make a difference on hydraulic or solid lifters on '54-'56 blocks, the oiling systems are different. The Hydraulic lifter block can run either version, but the solid lifter block can only run solids. After '57, that is no longer an issue.
The max overbore is 60 thousands (.060), rather than 6 thousands (.006). even then, I've been told by a reputable machinist that the 236/261 can safely go 80 thousands (.080). Note, TRW does make .080 pistons and Sealed Power has the matching rings for this engine.

It ought to work, Jeff.

Deve, it has been discussed that the 216 pulley turns the fan to fast, causing cavitation. My yard dog overheated with the small pulley.

I had the short water pump with the 216 size pulley on my 37 and I dont think it got hot as my temp gauge did not work and the coolant never came out the over flow but if I ran it hard I could hear a little gurgling from the radiator when I shut it off,it has a 4 row radiator so that must have made a difference but now have the adapter and a working temp gauge and it never goes over 180.

Good to know! thanks!

Nothing to do with the pulley, just the fan.

The pulley fit the 292 so I dont have to look for one now.

I found my knock. It was a bent pushrod. I straightened it and now it runs good.