The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop TPI swap instructions. What am I forgetting?

So I'm getting close to doing this swap. I've got a 1983 Chevy 305 in my 53 3100. It came out of a car my dad bought. It was rebuilt, RV cam (?) HEI, Holley 600. Runs good. I've had it in my truck for about 6000 miles now.

I've got a TPI, Injectors, computer, painless harness, distributor, and some other misc. parts that I don't really know what they are. I know I need to run a fuel pump and a return line. I've read tons of stuff on here and the rest of the net. I'm really looking for an A - Z manual on how to do this. It doesn't seem to be out there. All the pieces seem to be there, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if I've found all the pieces.


I'm clueless on how to wire this (do I just need to run ignition power and a ground or do I need to install a new fuse panel???). I know I need to do something to the computer (flash it or a new chip).

I could go on and on, but maybe one of you knows a centralized place I can go to find all the info I need instead of just a piece of it. Maybe someone can tell me why I shouldn't do this swap with this motor.

Thanks!

No centralized place on the net. Jagsthatrun.com has a decent book / manual on what you need, what to do, where to get parts with part numbers. You'll need to figure out if you are using a MAF system or a MAP system. MAF better for non-stock cams. You'll need the basic sensors and you should tell the computer to ignore unwanted systems (EGR, etc. ) That computer will want to know what's going on with the air coming in to the engine, what temp, what the gasses are like going out, what mph you are doing, etc. It will want 45 psi of fuel pressure. That book will have some good basics.

MainJet,
Denver,CO.
if your looking to read awhile, right in your backyard: take a Look over here

here too!<that's a good write up!

If you've got the painless fuel injection harness you've already got the step-by-step... Read the manual several times before you start, and you might want to link it up to an all-new painless chassis harness, depending on your existing wiring, but it's not necessary.

I put a TPI in my '62. I can only offer some personal pointers from experience, since I am not sure of one source of info.
1. You will need to convert your mechanical transmission speedo cable to accept also a speed sensor. If you don't have a speed sensor, you will have problems when you stop for red lights etc.
2. That painless harness is not "painless". In fact I don't like them because they have too much exposed wire. You will need to shorten some of it so don't use twisties or wire clips. ties, use solder.
3. heat shrink and/or plastic tape the wires and them put some plastic covering over. A future short will drive you nuts to find.
4. Your original ignition switch will soon be toast. Get everything running off of a relay (Summit has them).
5. I would not eliminate anything on the FI including the EGR. The ECM is designed to work with all sensors. With FI, the EGR makes the engine run cooler believe it or not.
6. If you have headers, one oxygen sensor will work off of one bank of cylinders, but you need to weld in a bung for it.
7. If you must run an external fuel pump oonsider the Eldebrock. Expensive, but they last and they are not as loud as some cheapos. Also, the line out of the tank ought to be at least 8AN and then narrow to 6AN at the FI unit. You also need a pressure regulator.
Get that FI working and you will be very satisfied, on one of the few hot rodders who have jumped out of carburation and into the 21st century

Guys... Thanks for the great info.

Dogs51Burb - who is in my backyard? I saw the CK 5 forum with a bunch of good threads though.

46gmcpu - I don't have the manual (got a used set up). I assume the manual is online some where though. I'll take a look

Tim K - Great list. Definitely things I haven't thought of. You mentioned my "original ignition switch." I don't have the floor button anymore as I'm running a 305. I have a button I put on the dash next to my keyed ignition. Is that the one you're talking about?

Thanks again everyone!

MainJet, Denver

http://coloradok5.com/forums/index.php "The Injection Section"

yep, ColoradoK5 is in your backyard, good information to read for days on that site..

"maybe one of you knows a centralized place I can go to find all the info"
I just tried to point your question to some answers..
They talk Chevy over there, like alot of guys here..

The button you refer to that you installed I presume simply runs the starter. The keyed ignition switch won't stand the extra amps that you will need to run all those FT sensors. Also, those old glass fuses have to be dumped. What I am suggesting is what I did. Instead of the keyed switch energizing a coil, have it energize a new relay under the dash. That relay will run the ignition and all the other stuff you add. Ignition on, relay on. In order to maintain the memory in the ecm, make sure that your power to the ecm is run directly off of a fused connection to the battery. That way the ecm is getting juice all of the time, even with ignition switch off. Welcome to the 21st century.