The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop IFS cross member for '47 to '55 3100's - GM Metric Based

Scott, Do you know of any pictures online of your installed kit. I just now got my frame blasted. I'll get round to it I hope. Gotta start practice welding.

Todd

Todd,

the only ones I know of are Junkbike on the HAMB. I will have my '53 under the welder sometime this weekend so I can post a few more pictures of my second installation.

I am going low on this one, so I am raising the crossmember into the frame.

Scott

Cool!

Scott, how low are you going for the 53? I found a complete 79 Malibu front end and am getting ready to pull the engine and trans out of the truck. I will be buying the IFS kit from you shortly. What's easier to do, cut the springs and buy lowering spindles or put your IFS into the frame more? You mentioned in earlier posts Summit and Speedway as sources for tube A-arm and spindles. Can you share part numbers?

do you want upper a-arms or both. Speedway only sells the uppers because that is all that is legal for GM metric based race cars. Global West and many others sell tubular uppers and lowers.

Here is the link to the spindles:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Make/CHEVROLET/Model/S10/Section/Suspension-Components/Part-Type/Spindles/?Ns=Rank|Asc

I recommend the Bell Tech 2100's

Scott,

Please send me info and prices. I'm interested in purchasing one.

Thanks

PM sent

Scott,

I only found pictures of a 1951 that Junkbike posted, but it had been bagged. There were no frame pictues. Could he have used your crossmember and then bagged it?

Have you made any progress on the 53?

I am still hanging drywall in the garage, but the frame is blasted clean. I am still removing stock spring mounts

I have to figure out what to do with a buggered up frame. It was hit at some point and I got the frame straightened, but the area just under the passenger rear spring mount needs reworked.

I know I should take some pics.

Todd

Todd, yes, Junkbike is using bags.

with boating season just finishing, I can now move back to the 53. I will be notching the frame, to raise the crossmember to get the truck another inch lower with the 53. Have to pick up another tank of gas to get any further.

Joe, nice pic.

Scott

Oh, believe me, there is always something else toget in my way. I am still hoping that the front end will not be lowered much. I bought a CPP spring kit for the rear and with the axle on the bottom of the springs the ride height should be close to stock.

Did Junkbike have any pictures at HAMB in the build process?

Todd

Joe,

It looks like you welded the crossmember in a lower postion to raise the static height of the frame. Am I correct. Were you trying to get it to a stock ride height?

Todd

Scott,
New "Bolter" here, I am currently in the middle of my 51 chevy project. I would like to see some pics of your pieces and what parts work on them. I would also like to know more about R&P options and steering box options. Thanks. Brian.

PM sent

Just to sumarize

here are pics of my development:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/561711357EzPphT

here are pics of other peoples installations:
http://community.webshots.com/album/583224908phbRRa

the finished truck shown was done in 3 days from receipt of crossmember to alignment. it has the frame notched to lower the stance (raising the crossmember)

Greetings;
I have used the M2 in the 53 panel 3100 which is 1300 in Canada.
Using the power steering ram that comes with it. Still not driving it yet. Has LS1 alum. 5.7. I have recently purchased a 49 burb and very interested in the 74 C10 bolt in front end. I have one eyed up for $200. with power steering. So if I make the fab. in the center of it, I will be able to bolt it in with no shims correct? The track width will still be a lot wider than the Mustang 2 kit. Problem with positive offset wheels available in 5 by 4.75 to center the wheel in the fenders is that they are a lot weaker wheel. (1400 lb. cap.) compared to alum. forged wheels at 2800lb. cap.
Any help here on this 74 front end would be appreciated. cheers

since webshots is no longer, here is a photobucket link to other peoples installations

http://s1343.beta.photobucket.com/user/scott_danforth/library/Crossmember%20Customers

one of my customers trucks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281089147904

Scott, I would like more info on your crossmember & cost. Also is there a 6 lug hub that can be used? Thanks Slick

6 bolt hubs would require welding and re-machining the GM metric hubs. PM or email me with your zip for a complete cost with shipping

Scott,

Hi. I'm new to this forum.I have a '51 1 ton express and a '49 GMC longbed 1/2 ton ghassis that I will be putting the '51 body onto.
I would like to buy one of your crossmember kits if they are still available.

Cliff

Cliff,

kits are available. PM or email me.

worse case they are a few weeks out if I am out of stock.

Scott

I have a 53 5-window 3100 that I want to upgrade the suspension. Anything that you can help me with would be greatly appreciated. I tried to send an PM but shows rejected.

~Hound dog~

Did you to the suspension conversion? If so, what did you use?

Until you're out of moderation, you cannot send PMs. This is to stop the spammers who register only to spam everyone with PMs.

You should be able to PM now since you've posted 4 times.

Hey Scott, I am a new bolter. I am working on a '51 3100 army truck. First old chevy truck for me. Not crazy about the s10 swap and my research led me to you. Could you send me some pics and the info for what components work on your kit? Also a price estimate would be great. Thanks! Tried to PM, but I guess I am too new.

I just finished one. if you want to see the process I used its here
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=569491&page=6

I used stock 2000 up S10 Blazer parts and a Tbird rack with Camaro tie rod ends retapped to 9/16.

Scott will your crossmember fit the 37 chev pickup frame.

Scott. If you can believe it, I have begun welding. I chose to make sure that the forward edge of the 2 hats was 17 inches from the nose of the frame. I still have about a 1/8 in gap on the inside between the cross-member and the boxing plate. I will use some 1/8 plate and steel rod to fill the gap and weld over it. I had to cut back the tabs on the hats about 1/32 on one side so they would stay in the slots on the cross-member. I tried to inset them and use them as a pivot and leverage the frame rails inward, but it just needed a slight adjustment.

So, I am about to find a steering rack. Do you know what the optimum full length and distance between pivots is? I am not an expert, but on a parallel a-arm setup I presume the pivot would be at the extension of the a-arm pivot. On this the upper and lower point in 2 directions, so I presume the rack pivot should be somewhere in between.

I am thinking about using a Flaming River Straight Arrow Modular which is a manual rack. I am using a 1957 235 truck motor and mounting a power steering unit will be complicated.

Have you known anybody to fill the gap on the outside between the cross-member and the bottom of the frame? I have been considering it, but it looks like some work.

Todd Maxwell

Todd, great pics. Are you talking of making a cover for the inverted half moon area under the spring purch?

regarding the rack and pinion. I will have to get a measurement of the overall lenght. I do not have that off the top of my head.

however you could run an electric power steering pump from a toyota MR2. I think new the pump is about $400 I have seen used for under $100

however a manual rack would also work. if you want, a sweet manufacturing or appleton from the racing world would also work. they have a bit more travel than the pinto racks from flaming river.

Looks like you are still making the IFS crossmember. Would you please send me the info and cost for a1951 3/4 ton? Thank you sir.

Price is still $500 plus shipping. send me a PM or email me at danforths@lsol.net with your zip code. also, let me know how you want to use the truck and I can recommend a list of parts

Scott,

I am talking about the area below the original frame where the two arms of the hat are welded to the main cross-member. It just looks like a place for dirt to build up and rust to fester. I am thinking of using a thinner metal, maybe sheet-metal just to cover the gap.

Do you have a web site or source for the racks you referenced? I like the idea of the manual rack as it would be less complicated in the engine compartment with my 6-cyl motor. But I worry it might limit my tire selection. I think I am going to use 70 series wide whites, but wider than the stock which I think was 205.

I like the idea of the toyota electric pump, but I have not seen that done much. While I like to be different, I am a bit concerned about that parts all working together.

Todd

I put one of these on and thought about closing off the space your talking about but after thinking about it if I closed it off and the welds were not perfect and the space perfectly sealed any water seepage would never dry out and rust much quicker. With it open dirt is easily washed out and water will dry quickly. Painting the area with rust-oleum or POR 15 would be a better idea

Just got a call from Weeds. he is done welding his in.

Scott, have a guy that will do my front end for me, so when I buy one of yours, could you include a parts list for the hardware and things? Also, this guy has built hot rods before but might want some decent instructions to go with it. I'm sure you probably include those anyway.
Thanks,
Tim

Tim,

the list of parts will be determined by how you want your truck to sit. near stock height, or down in the weeds. Let me know and I will give you a recommendation on parts. also let me know which driveline you will be using, as this will help me point you toward the correct springs.

yes, instructions come with the kit.

Scott

found some serious performance hardware that will bolt on to my crossmember for those that want to make a track truck. uses forged spindles, Corvette C5/C6 wheel bearings with the C5/C6 breaks, and all tubular uppers and lowers

http://scandc.com/new/node/742

Scott, that sounds great. Can you send me your contact info and how you want payment, also, is there any Christmas deal on the cross member? Lol
Thanks