The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks points

Hoping someone would know the gap for new points and plugs for my 66 c30 with 292


Thanks Dave

19 thousandths.

how about the plugs

Thanks Dave

As stated above on the points, plugs 35 thous, ignition timing 4 deg ,btdc

Might you consider installing a Petronix unit, best $75.00 I've spent, replaces all the points and stuff.

Don't know about performance but I do have HEI distributor for my truck but I have been running these points now for 8 years never a problem I also like to keep it original but I have thought about putting the HEI in now and then I am having an issue now though and I have not replaced anything yet my truck won't idle stalls runs ok at higher speeds I have seen other post about the bushings in the distributor causing low end issues but I was going to try the points and plugs 1st I'm up to 82,000 miles on my truck.

Thanks Dave

I have thought about the conversion for my '65. My concern with the Pertronix unit is if it fails your local parts place may not have one. But they will have points and a condenser.

When you install the pertronix ther is NO modification involved.

Remove the points install the pertronix and slide the magnet on. Put cap back on. carry a set of points in the glove box for emergencies.

Interesting, your convincing me of the error of my ways. So the ballast resistor and the condenser, are they removed or do they stay in place too?

If you have the correct coil, no ballast resistor is needed on a 12v system. What brand, part# coil are you using?

No condenser is needed with the Pertronix unit (but keep a set of points and a condenser in you "first aid, swap out kit").

My truck has an Accel Super Coil, on it when I bought it.

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...iveline/2203987800103882008PsgADE_fs.jpg

On the topic of Pertronics I was led to believe in a 66 the coil wire had an internal resistance and a new wire had to be ran to the firewall. that the wire was actually the ballast resistor.

Thanks Dave

Very good observation/information, Dave

It may be completely unfounded but I don't trust aftermarket ignition conversion kits. All my old stuff with points always started in winter and ran just fine as long as I gave them a little attention once in a while. What I like to do is to put a new set of points and condenser in in the spring and put the old ones in the glovebox just in case (although I've never needed them). Check the dwell at oil changes (it almost never needs adjusting) and put in a new set next year. If you do need to use the old set it's already pretty well adjusted and should work if you need them. One thing about points is that they usually give you warning signs that they need attention. Electronic ignition just quits.

I have had points that kept working right down to where there were holes in them, and then it was just running rough. Perked right up once I replaced them. I have had plenty of electronic ignitions conk out on me on the road.

I bought a used 1978 Suzuki GS750 that was originally a dual points system. When they wore out, I thought I would perk it up by installing an electronic system. About 20K miles down the road, it lost one of the two electronic modules and it ran like crap, barely got me home. I put the old points system back in with a new set of points and never had a bit of trouble with it after that. I put over 150K miles on that bike.

You can't beat a good set of points and replacement parts are everywhere.