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Greetings from New Jersey,

Photo of Chevy 6 cylinder Distributor Shaft
with the Drive Gear still installed.

How do you remove this gear without
destroying the gear or the shaft ?

What's the technique for peening over
the Lock Pin for re-installation ?

I've never done this before.

See photo below:


http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/glp0329/DistributorGear_zpsd9ce75f0.jpg

Thank You,
George

Last edited by '54 3600; 06/02/2013 3:18 PM.

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You will need to grind off the headed end of the pin to drive it out.
I always use a roll pin as a replacement. I have NOS pins but I split a gear trying to use them.


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When I rebuilt my distributor I filed the peened area of the lock pin down and drove it out. I used a correctly sized split roll pin to replace the lock pin and have had no issues. I believe I had to cut the split pin to get the proper length...been a while!


Ed
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Dave, I just got ( 9 ) lock pins GM NOS - GM part # 865180. If these are not the best choice to use for re-installation.
Please tell me the source & part # for the roll pins you use.
Obviously these roll pins need to be peened over.

How is this done ?

Please explain the technique.

Thank You,
George


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The "pin" is soft. I used a file to make it flush with the gear. Put a small punch just smaller than the pin on it. Supported with my vice and some rags and drove it out with a hammer. Replaced with a roll pin from the auto parts house. Came in a box with about a dozen different sizes. Just picked the best fit and pressed it in there. Mine was a bit long so used the angle grinder to get it close to the gear. Some room in there so no need to make it perfect. Was not to tough and worked just fine. Was the only way to get the shaft out of the housing any way. Roll pin does not need to be "peened" over. Spring tension will hold them in place.


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That is what I was talking about. Thanks Pre'68 Dave


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Originally Posted by '54 3600
Obviously these roll pins need to be peened over.

How is this done ?

Please explain the technique.

Thank You,
George

Roll pins are NOT peened , they are a spring and friction holds them in the hole.

You just need to pick the right (tight) diameter.

Regards Dusty

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Ok...I get it now. Use a roll pin that

fits tight & tap it home & trim to length.

I sure hope the spring pressure holds this

gear on .....I'd hate to have this gear come

loose & lose the small fortune that I have

invested in this engine rebuild.

From the given advice...some of you have actually

done this without a problem. Is that the fact ???

I don't like to assume anything.

I'm learning alot rebuilding this 1954

235 engine.

Many of the processes, I've never come upon

before.

Thank You everyone
for the advice.

George


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I have used the roll pin method many times.


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Also, think about where this roll pin is sitting. It CANT come out. I suppose you could spot weld the roll pin into place, but I don't know what metals are used. Probably not the best idea.


Deve

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A lot of distributors have roll pins in them originally.


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Last edited by '54 3600; 06/03/2013 2:58 AM.

1954 3600
A big help to many on the Bolt
Now cruising in
The Passing Lane

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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