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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,073 Posts1,055,908 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | OK so this week I replaced the king pins. Not too tough. The pins were well greased and came with gentle punch and hammer work. Cleaned every thing up and put it all back with no difficulty. The passenger side was very worn and loose so it was time. But, always the ,but. When I put the wheels back on I noticed there was a wear pattern that made me wonder. Ribbed bias ply fronts on a 52 half ton. 15 inch wheels. both tires had the inside ribs worn more than the rest of the tire. With a step up at the third rib towards the center. Both sides the same. With the new pins should I wait for a few miles to see if it gets better? Can incorrect toe in cause this? I did search and found that bad king pins can cause this so just to keep from worry what do you recommend? Thanks to all here for the help. Steve
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 1,453 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 1,453 | Was the toe checked / adjusted? On a solid with new pins & bushings an axle or spindle wound have to be bent to effect camber. Recheck toe, I wouldn'd keep driving it.
BC 1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc 1949 GMC 250 project in waiting 1960 C60 pasture art Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022 | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | Will check toe in soon. Truck tracks OK and has much better feel than before. Might have more concerns but there is new tie rod ends on it and a new drag link so some work went into it before it was parked. PO went blind and the truck was the least of his problems. Even found the owner before him so I have over 20 years of history on this truck. No Crashes and no curb jumps and I know both guys well enough to trust them. Skill levels are another thing. So toe will get checked this week end.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | I have seen some brands of bias ply wear like that when nothing was wrong. It is not all that uncommon.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | Pulled a tape on the front yesterday. First rib in on each side tape just touching the spring. That was to get the height the same on both tires. Close to the center-line of the wheel. Did the same on the back. Rolled the truck 2 revolutions forward and 2 back. 61 3/4 inch front, 61 1/4 on the back. Toe out not toe in...Well that could do it. Pushed one tie rod end off with a floor jack. Safer than a pickle fork. Measured from out side tie rod end to out side tie rod and gave the off tie rod end 1 turn out. Measured end to end again difference was 1/16 inch. so to move the front in and the back out I went 4 more turns. Should have moved 1/4 longer. Figured about 61 1/2 front and 61 1/2 back. Unless simple math had failed. Put it back on and rolled the truck again....measured 61 3/8 front. 61 1/2 back...? Then remembered the 1 turn I gave it at the first. Book says 1/16 to 3 /16. So did I do it right? Truck steers nice and the steering wheel did have to be reset. But maybe with all the changes I should just drive it and watch those tires? Stability in town is good. Those ribs will track any flaw in the road just a bit. And ran it up to 55 just to see what would happen. Still nice and straight. Any thoughts? Oh for those who want to do this..it was WORK! Nothing wanted to move. Lots of WD-40 and some big wrenches to move that tie rod end. I did slip a wedge shaped chisel into the clamp on the tie rod end to help get it loose on the tie rod. New bolt back in the clamp and it clamped just fine. Thanks
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Assuming that you have a factory setup, I don't understand why you would remove a tie rod end to adjust the tow in. You should rotate the tie rod the correct amount to do the adjustment. Also, the adjustment does not affect the alignment of the steering wheel. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | truckernix: I was simply not able to apply enough torque to the tie rod to turn it. With one end off I could turn that one end. As well as I can tell that tie rod has been unmoved for some time. One day I will remove the other end and make it move as well. Also I was not aware that one end was left hand thread and the other right handed. So did not know that I could just turn the tie rod. So I learned something. Cool.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | Update: Took the truck out for a good drive. In town and on two short trips. All-told about 150 miles. Tracks fine, nice feel, stays straight...Big lurch and a fight to bring it back. What the %$#@! Back under the truck and what did I see? Both front spring shackles are bent and loose.....More time with my truck. Seems that all would work until the whole front shifted to one side or the other. Maybe 1/4 inch total movement. Now why did I not see that from under there? I gotta pay more attention. Me and my brother were in the truck. Scary but just manageable. Not something I would like to do again. Waiting for parts.
Steve H
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