The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Wanted - advice on removing the cab from the fram on a 60 or 61

I am carefully tearing down a 2 ton farm truck because the cab looks really good. The rest of the truck is junk, wheels are gone, the front cap was dented and the hood was dented and rusted through. I have removed the front cap and the running boards but since the cab will fit a pickup, I want to remove it without damaging it.

My question is the 4 mounting bolts on the bottom. What's the best proceedure to getting them off? Seems to me that if I cut them off, I might be doing a bad thing to whoever wants to use the cab.

This cab is really quite solid, no dents, Doors open and close with a nice solid clunk and I am sure someone out there could use it.

Thanks for any advice,

Dave (tn)

i just removed a 62 cab from a 2 tonner, i just used and impact and a 1/2inch drive ratchet on the top to hold the upper bolt inside the cab. and used a A frame with a strap to lift it off.

I know on my cab bolts once I got the nut off the bolt I had to use an air chisel to drive the bolt up and out of its 48 year old rusty home. By the time I was done the bolt was unusable.

Sometimes its easier to just tighten the bolt until it breaks in two, especially if it's really really rusted and corroded.

Good luck to ya

Thanks Guys,

So they are bolts all the way through the floorboard tnen. And if I ruin them it won't be a problem for whoever wishes to use the cab?

Thanks, I will take a closer look.

I'd just cut them off. There is probably less chance of doing any damage to the cab buy cutting the bolts. I recently did this with the trailing arm bolts on my 62. I just used a cutoff wheel and sliced up the nuts.

I got my C10 loose using the impact wrench and a 1/2" ratchet like RJ. I used a cherry picker and a friend to lift the cab off the frame although that probably won't work with the taller truck like yours.

When I did my '63 back in the late 70's, I removed the front clip, removed the bed, then jacked the whole thing up, built an A-Frame through the open windows, and used a cheater pipe on a breaker bar and a lot of WD-40 to break my cab bolts free.

Then I just swapped out the tires for 4 stock rims with no tires, lowered it down and rolled it out from under the cab.

I had backed into a telephone pole at 35mph after hydroplaning during a rainstorm. Bent the frame and had to replace it. :-(

When I was done swapping the drive train over, I just rolled that back under the cab, jacked it up, and bolted it together.

It's amazing how much easier it is to work on the drive train with no sheet metal on the truck. :-)

Do not use a strap. Unless you are using a spreader bar for it.
It will ruin the rain gutters, lots of stress lifting something that way, on the strap and the item. A wood beam and a cherry picker engine hoist works great. You put the beam through the door openings and lift on the sill.

I have a 8000 lb fork lift that I use in my sawmill yard. This lift is built on frame with 20" tires underneath, duals on the mast end and the wheels are actually the same bolt pattern as the Chevy.

I torched the frame right behind the cab after I cribbed up the front end of the truck with 3ft 3X3 wood cribbing. Now I can slide the forks underneath the floorboard and lift it up. Then set it down on a pallet. I will let the new owner strap it down after I set the pallet on his trailer or truck.

I will cut the bolts since they are removable anyway. That was my basic question.

The frame and the rear axle, etc, have already gone to the salvage yard

Thanks for all the advice, now to find a buyer and come to a fair price.

do make sure and use a spreader cuz it will ruin the rain gutters.