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Joined: Jun 2010
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Shop Shark
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I did a search and cannot find the answer to my question. I am going to apply Dynamat (or equivalent) to the interior of my '52. Going to apply to roof, firewall, under seat, back wall of cab. My question is the floor. I am concerned that if I apply the Dynamat on the floor where to I stop so the Dynamat will not be visable after installing the rubber floor mat and trim. Or, do most simply not apply to the floor at all. I will be undercoating the floor with 3M body Shutz...will that be sufficient?

Last edited by DavidF; 05/28/2013 11:18 AM.
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'Bolter
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What if you dynamatted the bottom of your rubber floor mat instead of the truck floor?


1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
In the DITY Gallery
Video of the 261 running

1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
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The jute pad works well
...pic...

I padded to here
...pic...

...pic...






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Either jute padding or sound deadening, the rubber mats only extend to the seat base and not along the sides of the seat base. Seems to me, this will leave a large "edge" and be unsightly. And, how will the metal sill trim transition from the increased thickness to zero? I may have to NOT apply sound deadening to the cab floor and hope the undercoating works well enough.

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4
'Bolter
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Apply it to the floor. It will block a lot of heat and noise. You might have to lay out your rubber mat first, and see how much of the floor it will cover.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
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'Bolter
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I don't know what kind of work you've done to you cab, but if you haven't replaced the rubber pieces between the cab mount and frame, you might want to give that a try. I used Eastwood's Thermo Coustic and jute pad everywhere I could in my cab, but later I replaced those rubber washers when I did some cab mount repairs and noticed an unexpected huge improvement in sound transmition from the engine.

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I am in the mist of a complete (100%) frame off restoration. Time will come soon that I need to paint the interior of cab and I am trying to plan paint and sound deadening together. Which reminds me: Paint first or sound deadener first. I hate the thought of that silver aluminum peeking out from under the floor mat or somewhere else.

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Wrench Fetcher
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what about lizzard skin or equivelant black spray on

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Lizard Skin...yes, why didn't I think of that. So, now here is my plan:

3M Body Shutz: underside of cab and wheel wells. Literature lists sound control as primary capability. This will eliminate need for any product on interior side of cab floor.

Lizard Skin SC (interior application): back wall of cab, under fuel tank, under seat (subwoofer will go under seat so better sound control is a bonus here), roof, and toe kick/firewall. Lizard skin is paintable, so I will apply before cab is painted and paint the Lizard Skin with cab finish (color) coat.

Dynamat: Inside of doors. Easier application than spray on product due to limited access. I like the mass of Dynamat to dampen the big drum that is an AD door.


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