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| | | | Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 62 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 62 | so i removed approximately 12 screws from around the perimeter of the oil pan, along with 2 bolts at the rear and 2 at the front but cannot remove the pan.. it feels like there is still something attaching the pan to the block somewhere in the front.. as if there are some bolts on the inside right behind the crankshaft pulley. what am i missing? before i pry this thing into pieces | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | The only fasteners you access from inside the pan are to the timing gear cover. I'm not aware of any hidden fasteners. There is sometimes a clearance issue that requires dropping one end of the tie-rod or tranny cross member. There may be something that I'm not just familiar with. What year of 216 are you fiddling with?
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| | | | | Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 62 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 62 | it's in a '53 chevy 1/2ton.
i figured it out, there's a canister coming out of the passenger side of the block that has what looks like a "relief drain" coming down along the side of the oil pan (anybody know what this is..does it work like freeze plugs?).. this was pinching the oil pan in place.. i pried it out of the way to get the pan off. then for putting it back on, the pan was touching this cover plate on the transmission; two bolts and it was out, allowing me to slip the pan back on. (was not covered once pan was in, so the plate went right back after the pan did)
on a seperate note (instead of making a new thread), how do i remove the front and rear main seals once the pan is out? i saw two bearing cap looking pieces when the pan was out (one at the front, one at the rear).. are these caps part of the procedure?
Last edited by gmtjr; 05/27/2013 4:09 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 | The front seal is behind the crank pulley , in the front cover.
I strongly suggest you follow the shop manual , it has all the correct info for you. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | Sounds like the crankcase breather (road draft tube). It will probably need washed up to clean it out.
John | | | | | Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 62 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 62 | dusty, i'm making a classicparts buy this week, all the manuals are part of the order; just don't have them yet
lightning, if you're talking about a PCV valve, the canister is attached to the block and has a metal downturn tube going down past the pan
Last edited by gmtjr; 05/27/2013 4:22 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | That's the road draft tube. As you are moving down the road the air passing past the end of it creates a vacuum and pulls the vapors out of the engine crankcase. Fresh air is drawn in through the vents in the valve cover.
Tim, you beat me to the link....LOL
John | | | | | Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 62 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 62 | every time i touch this truck, i see something mechincal i've never seen before. apparently today is no exception; thanks for the info guys.
Last edited by gmtjr; 05/27/2013 4:45 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 | you really need to get a manual, you are obviously in for a good time. You will see things on these trucks you would never imagine any one would do on purpose. But bear in mind the better part of them was designed in the 30's, a lot has transpired since then. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | I think I'd rather work on one of these, than the newer crap...... John | | |
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