The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Complete Brake Re-build

I am BRAND NEW here...

I have a 1950, 3100. I want to do a complete brake system rebuild...all new lines, new master cylinder, new cylinders, etc...

I am wondering what y'all can suggest as far as where to shop for parts. I started with LMC but it seems to be a bit high in my book...

KINGLONESTAR, Welcome to stovebolt.com. Go to your local automotive part store, you just might be surprised.

KINGLONESTAR,

Welcome to Stovebolt.com

I usually compare local prices with Rockauto.com prices (no sales tax makes up a little for their reasonable shipping charges}.

My brake cylinders ($15.00 ea.) and the three hoses i bought from NAPA. if you are going to upgrade your master cylinder try http://www.piratejack.net/

If you are going to replace the steel lines try NAPA they have ez-bend type or you can go to your local shop and have them bend it for you.

or here http://www.truckandcarshop.com/

good luck

Just for comparison: $15 at NAPA for 3100/3200 1956 wheel cylinder ($16.99 at my NAPA)?
Raybestos for $5.50 at Rockauto.com (1956 3100/3200)

1950 Huck brake system parts are usually more expensive than for the 1956: 4x for front wheel cylinders at Rockauto.com ($24.00) - NAPA is 50% higher ($36).

OK thx for the suggestions so far...here's another 'rub...'

I just pulled the front drivers side hub, and the wheel cylinders do NOT look the same as the '50 model wheel cylinders I've seen in catalogs or online (LMC, Tuck Shop, Tuckers, Ecklers, etc...). The cylinders APPEAR to be for the '51-'55's (they have the rubber cups...). i have not pulled all four drums yet. Will there be a 'tell-tale' sign that the brake system has been previously upgraded to a '51 or newer system? How will I be able to tell if my brakes have been switched to self adjusting?

51-55 Bendix brakes were not self-adjusting.

From what you describe, your brake assembly has been changed (although, you might have a late 1950 truck that has the 1951 Bendix brakes)? The possibilities are myriad - can you post a link to some photos?

Do your brakes look like these earlier (1947-1950) Huck brakes;
or,
Do you brakes look like these 1951-55 Bendix brakes?

The fronts look like the second picture...the rear look 'similar' to the front BUT the outer 'cups' on the cylinders are metal instead of rubber...

I rebuilt the rears pretty easily and put those back on this evening already. I have to rebuild the master cylinder tomorrow and start putting everything back together...

I dont know how to post pictures here yet...

I'm not sure what they do with those AD trucks, but for a complete brake job, I'd go with a dual system master cylinder.

Agreed. I just took my '50 3600 out for a shake down cruise and when I really had to step on the brakes, a line split and pedal went to the floor. The old saying on a single master cylinder, you lose one brake line you lose them all. I have a dual cylinder coming this week to replace the single along with all new brake lines.

[/quote]Agreed. I just took my '50 3600 out for a shake down cruise and when I really had to step on the brakes, a line split and pedal went to the floor. The old saying on a single master cylinder, you lose one brake line you lose them all.[/quote]

i sort of question that theory. ive had lines fail on a 96 ram and an 04 gmc. the pedal went to the floor both times. both times i was responding to an emergency. both times i had very little to no braking what so ever. the only thing that did happen was the light on the dash came on. big deal, i already knew what the problem was especially the second time around. good thing about a stick, engine braking.
the key to any safety system is to preform routine inspections on the system. replace everything, keep it stored indoors and there will never be an issue. store it outside and run it through the slop year after year and your system will fail in no time

I know the theory that a dual system is safer but...
Every under floor duel master conversion I know of puts the master cylinder to the rear of stock. This makes checking the fluid level very hard as it no longer lines up with the floor inspection opening. In some cases you can make a new opening in the floor but not always. Sometimes it is under the seat.
I question how safe that is.

dave, which part?

Not being able to check the fluid level easily.

gotcha. i have a friend that has a 56 gmc with the same set up and didnt have another hole cut in the floor. while doing some work on his brakes i couldnt even use an inspection mirror to check the level. so i made a dip stick out of a piece of wire. filling it up was problematic also.

I have seen a lot of dual cylinder conversions and the second thing that really scares me is the way people run the brake lines.
The factory has tested and engineered the routing and attachment of the lines to prevent vibration wear and stress cracking.
I would trust a well maintained single cylinder over most of the dual setups I have seen.

So on more modern vehicles, why do some have the lines coiled up at the master?

Stress relief as there is some twisting in a chassis.
That is one example of a result of factory testing that most hobbyists are not taking in to consideration when doing a master cylinder and line conversion.