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| | | Forums66 Topics128,158 Posts1,057,025 Members48,460 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 24 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 24 | Hello all, I have finally gotten off my butt and am going to get my 51 on the road. I have purchased a 1997 S-10 ext cab with a 4.3 and auto. Yes I know I won’t have an original truck, I know I won’t have a 3/4 ton any longer and I know there are a lot of threads on this topic however nothing on my questions.
I’d like to get some info from those that have done the swap, and if you have done the swap with a newer S-10 and used the fuel injection and motor/tranny would be awesome. I would like to use as much as I can from the s-10, wiring, seat, steering column, dome light, etc..
The question: Where to Start?!?!?!?!? I have been trying to lay out a plan to get this done in the most efficient way. What is the first thing you took off your s-10? And what was next? Etc…. ? Then when you went with putting on you AD in what way did you go? Cab first, Bed First… etc. ? I plan on using the EZChassisSwap kit. Seems to be very good, has anyone had experience with them? Also I understand that the rear-end won’t work because it is too narrow, I have a 9 inch that I was thinking of using, has anyone put a 9 inch under their swap?
I should be pouring concrete in the next couple weeks so I don’t have to roll around on the dirt, once I get that done I will start the build.
Thanks for any help you can offer. Brian
Last edited by 51FarmTruck; 05/23/2013 5:00 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | It all depends on the look you went. I kept the stock S-10 diff in my '46, but I have 15x10" wheels on the back with 3-3/4" backspacing, and I have tubbed the box. If I were doing one with fuel injection I would actually scrap the stock S-10 harness, and use a painless fuel injection harness along with the painless chassis harness. This will save you a lot of headache in the long run.
Start by stripping the S-10. Get the body and everything you don't need off the frame. Don't remove the body mounts. Yet. I think the EZ chassis swap makes it much easier if you're looking for a not-too-low ride height and aren't experienced with fabrication. We've never used those kits, but we've always wanted ours lower than was possible with the EZ kits. I've never done the S-10 swap with the stock S-10 driveline, so I am not sure how your cab placement will go with the motor in the stock location. We've done it with big block Chevy's and Big Block Buicks and the motor ends up in a different place depending on the cab style being used. On my dad's 52 Chevy with a 454 he used the stock 4.3 motor mounts and it worked out just right, so the 4.3 might be in an okay spot, but you'll find out.
When we set the body on the frame we set the cab and front fenders/grille as a unit, so that you can clearance the areas you need to, as well as to make sure your tire ends up in the spot you want in the wheel well. Always mount your cab first, then you can disassemble the front fenders afterwards if desired. Then do the running boards/bed at the same time.
When disassembling the S-10, work the other way, take off the box, and work your way forward, etc. If you're wanting to lower the S-10 frame, do it before you mount the body, and then put similar sized tires and wheels on to what you plan on running (at least in height) before you mount the body, so you can get the ride height where you want it. It's a process, but if you do it step by step it's pretty easy.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 24 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 24 | AWESOME!!! thanks for the great reply. that was some of the info I was looking for. I'm sure I will have some more questions once I get this project started. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 420 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 420 | checkout this website......www.e-zchassisswaps.com they have the whole kit to do you're truck the right way | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 | I plan on using the EZChassisSwap kit. Seems to be very good, has anyone had experience with them? Yes, I have. Ed and Cheryl are really nice people. Ed's been there and can help with all your questions - he's a pretty patient guy.
My Fleet: 19411953195919651966 1953 Willy's Pickup John Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 438 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 438 | 51 farm truck Check out the difference in the hub width on the 97 vs the 51 front end. Ask questions from the EZ swap folks but even with maximum backspacing I believe you will have fender rubbing issues. I have not done this swap but all the ones I have looked at use frames up to mid 80's or so. Better to determine now if the 97 chassis can be used rather than after a lot of work. Also check out killbillet and ratrodsrule websites to see a lot of ad/s10 builds.
Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle."-Abraham Lincoln
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | 49bourbon, the S-10 frame is the same from 82-till end of production. The track width of the 4x4's is wider, but for 2wd there were no changes in track width or frame geometry.
We've done the S-10 swap with 2wd frames ranging in year from 1985 to 2000, and they're all the same. | | |
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